Showing posts with label Marblehead. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Marblehead. Show all posts

Tuesday, November 10, 2026

Woodworking Tip of the Day: Bottom Paint on a Wooden Boat: Hard or Ablative, Two Coats and an Extra at the Waterline

Not for nuthin'…. But.. every November the boats come out of Marblehead Harbor wearing a beard, and every April the same guys are back in the yard with a scraper, wondering why last year's bottom paint quit in August. Most of the time it wasn't the brand. It was the prep, the coat count, or the wrong kind of paint for how the boat actually lives.

Why it matters: Antifouling only works if there's enough of it, in the right places, stuck to a surface that will hold it. Interlux says it straight in their paint guide: under-applied antifouling fouls early and can cost you a mid-season haul-out. And the waterline, stem, keel and rudder edges see the most turbulence, so they wear through first. Two full coats is the floor, and those spots get a third.

Materials

  • Antifouling matched to how the boat lives: hard for trailered boats, boats stored out of the water and racers who burnish; ablative for a boat that sits on a mooring all season and should wear away slowly instead of building up (Interlux)
  • The paint maker's thinner/solvent wash (Interlux Special Thinner 216 or Brush-Ease 433; Pettit 120)
  • Primer or tie coat if the old paint is unknown or incompatible, or if you're going over bare wood with a paint that calls for one (Pettit's ECO HRT, for example, wants 6627 Tie-Coat on bare wood)
  • 80-grit paper
  • Fine-line tape for the waterline

Tools

  • Short-nap solvent-resistant roller (Interlux says 3/8"; Pettit wants 3/16" or less for ECO HRT) and a cheap wide brush for the edges
  • Sanding block, bucket and sponge for wet sanding
  • Fitted particulate respirator, nitrile gloves, eye protection and a disposable suit. Old copper paint dust is nothing to breathe or track into the house
  • Drop cloth to catch the sludge, and a stir stick. Lots of stirring

Steps

  1. Decide if you need it at all. A dory that lives on a trailer and goes in for the afternoon doesn't foul like a mooring boat. Plenty of us keep a dry-sailed boat in good bottom paint or epoxy and just hose her off. If she's staying in all summer, keep going.
  2. Pick the type to match the old paint and the use. Hard over hard, ablative over ablative is the easy road. Check the maker's compatibility chart. If you don't know what's on there, seal it with their recommended primer before you go on top.
  3. Prep the surface. Old paint in good shape: wet-sand with 80 grit and wipe with the maker's thinner. Bare wood: Interlux's ACT sheet says sand with 80 grit, wipe with 216, and thin the first coat 10% so it soaks in, then two more coats unthinned. Epoxy-coated bottom: put the first coat of antifouling on inside the primer's overcoat window (Pettit Protect is 5 to 8 hours at 70°F). Miss it and you sand the epoxy with 80 grit first.
  4. Set the waterline a little high. Run the top of the bottom paint above where she actually floats. Chop, wakes and a loaded boat ride higher than a calm day at the float. Take the gap off your own boat, not off a blog.
  5. Stir, then stir again. The biocide settles to the bottom of the can. Mix it all back in and keep stirring while you work. Thin only if the paint drags, and never more than 10% by volume (Interlux).
  6. Roll two full coats. Respect the overcoat time on the can. Interlux ACT, as an example, wants 12 hours between coats at 77°F and 50F or warmer to apply. Pacifica Plus is 4 hours. Every paint is different. The can wins.
  7. Add the extra coat where she wears. A third coat on the waterline band, the stem and forefoot, and the keel and rudder edges.
  8. Don't rush the launch. Interlux warns that skipping dry times leads to detachment, blistering or cracking. ACT is 12 hours to launch at 77F; Pettit Protect needs 72 hours after the last epoxy coat at 70°F. A cold April in Marblehead stretches all of it.

MOAM's shop note: The guy who dry-sands old copper paint with a random-orbit and no mask is in every boatyard. Don't be him. Wet-sand, wear the respirator, and catch the sludge so it doesn't go down the ramp. And one more: copper paints like ACT say right on the label not to use them on aluminum. That goes for outdrives, too.

MOAM Out.

Sources: Interlux Boat Paint Guide · Interlux ACT product sheet Interlux Pacifica Plus product sheet · Interlux: Antifouling Questions Answered · Pettit Protect application guide Pettit ECO HRT instructions

Monday, November 09, 2026

Woodworking Tip of the Day: Gluing Teak and Oily Woods: Sand Fresh, Wipe Clean, Glue Fast

Teak will humble you faster than a northeast wind on a mooring….. It's the wood every boat owner on this harbor wants on the coamings, the thwarts and the grab rails, and it's the one most likely to drop a glue joint in your lap a year later. On the Chamberlain Marblehead gunning dory I've got a few teak bits going on, and I treat every one of those glue-ups like a timed event. Because it is one.

Why it matters: The same natural oil that makes teak shrug off rot and salt also works against glue. WEST SYSTEM's own surface-prep guidance puts it plainly: wipe teak and oily woods with acetone about 15 minutes before coating, because "solvent removes the oil at the surface and allows the epoxy to penetrate." Their Epoxyworks magazine says the same thing about teak in marine work: the oils that give it durability "also work against epoxy adhesion." It isn't just teak, either. WEST lists white oak, ipe, greenheart, purpleheart and black walnut among the difficult-to-glue hardwoods. A planed face that's been sitting around is glazed and oily. Glue on that and you've glued to the oil, not the wood.

Materials

  • Teak or other oily hardwood, dry (6 to 12% moisture content, per WEST)
  • Epoxy: WEST SYSTEM G/flex 650 is their recommended pick for oily woods (1:1 by volume, about 45 minutes pot life). Standard 105-series epoxy with two-step bonding also gets used.
  • 406 Colloidal Silica if the joint is gappy, or 405 Filleting Blend for a wood-toned glue line on bright work
  • Acetone (or WEST 850 solvent)
  • Plain white paper towels. Lots of them.
  • 80-grit aluminum oxide sandpaper (no stearate "no-load" coating)

Tools

  • Sanding block
  • Shop vac or a clean bench brush
  • Mixing cups and sticks, disposable glue brush
  • Clamps and cauls, packing tape or plastic over the cauls
  • Nitrile gloves and a respirator rated for organic vapors if you're wiping much acetone in a closed shop
  • A timer. Your phone is fine.

Steps

  1. Dry-fit and mark it. Get every clamp and caul set and the parts labeled before anything gets wiped. Once the clock starts, you don't want to be hunting for the third clamp.
  2. Pre-wipe. Wipe the bonding faces with acetone on white paper towels, then dry them with fresh towels before the solvent evaporates. WEST says to clean before sanding so you don't grind the contaminant into the surface.
  3. Sand fresh. Once the solvent has flashed off, sand the bonding faces with 80-grit along the grain. You want open, fresh fibers, not a burnished planer face.
  4. Get the dust off. Vacuum or brush it with a clean brush. WEST warns against compressed air (compressor oil and water) and sticky tack rags (residue).
  5. Final wipe and start the timer. One more acetone wipe on fresh towels, wiped dry while still wet. Change towels often. Let the solvent evaporate completely, then coat within 15 minutes. That's WEST's window.
  6. Mix and coat both faces. Mix G/flex 650 1:1 by volume and coat both mating surfaces. Thicken with 406 if the fit isn't tight, or 405 if you want the glue line to blend in under varnish.
  7. Clamp light. Snug it just until a small bead squeezes out. WEST is clear on this: too much pressure squeezes the epoxy out and starves the joint. Clean up or shape the squeeze-out right away.
  8. Leave it alone. G/flex wants about 24 hours at 72°F for full cure before you stress the joint. Colder shop, longer wait. Here in a November shop in Marblehead, that means overnight and then some.

MOAM's shop note: The rag is what bites most people. WEST points out that solvent will pull silicone out of a laundered shop rag (fabric softener) and can dissolve synthetic fibers, and you end up wiping a release film onto the very face you're trying to clean. Plain white paper towels, fresh ones every pass. And keep your bare hand off the sanded face, no matter how good it looks. If you're thinking yellow glue on teak instead, Titebond's own sheets say to call their tech line before gluing oily woods. That tells you something.

MOAM Out.

Sources: WEST SYSTEM: Surface Preparation · WEST SYSTEM: G/flex 650 · WEST SYSTEM: Bonding and Clamping · Epoxyworks: Preventing Surface Contamination · Epoxyworks: Durable, Beautiful Teak

Sunday, November 08, 2026

Woodworking Tip of the Day: Epoxy Thickeners: Which Filler for Which Job

This is catching the MOAM's attention today….. the row of filler tubs on the shelf. On the Chamberlain Marblehead gunning dory I've got four or five of them going at once, and they all look like the same white-ish powder in a cup. They are not the same. One makes a joint you could hang the boat from. Another makes a putty that sands like a dream and has no business in a joint. Grab the wrong tub and you find out later, usually the hard way. So here's how I keep them straight: pick the filler for the job, then thicken it to the consistency the job needs.

Why it matters: WEST SYSTEM splits its fillers into two families. Adhesive (high-density) fillers, 404, 406, 403 and 405, cure to "a strong, hard-to-sand" epoxy plastic for bonding, fillets and hardware. Fairing (low-density) fillers, 407 and 410, cure to a "light, easily sandable material" for cosmetic work. Inside each family the fillers aren't interchangeable either. WEST's own selection guide rates each one for hardware bonding, general bonding, fillets, laminating and fairing, and the ratings move around. 404 is top dog for hardware. 406 is top for fillets. 403 is top for laminating. 410 gets no stars for anything but fairing. And the amount of filler matters as much as which one: the same cup goes from syrup to catsup to mayonnaise to peanut butter as you add powder, and each of those has its own job.

The fillers, in plain English (descriptions from WEST SYSTEM and their Epoxyworks magazine)

  • 404 High-Density: a high-strength fibrous mineral. Developed for hardware bonding where high cyclic loads are expected. Cures off-white. The hardest of the bunch to sand.
  • 406 Colloidal Silica: fumed amorphous silica (Epoxyworks notes it contains no crystalline silica). Controls viscosity and keeps epoxy from running out of vertical and overhead joints. Makes a smooth mix for bonding and fillets. WEST calls it their most versatile filler. Cures off-white.
  • 403 Microfibers: mostly cotton flock. Thickens fast, grainy "like oatmeal" when mixed, and it's WEST's go-to for bonding wood: good gap filling while still wetting into the wood fibers. Cures off-white.
  • 405 Filleting Blend: the wood-toned one, for glue joints and fillets on naturally finished wood. Cures dark brown and can be used to shade the other fillers.
  • 407 Low-Density: microballoon-based fairing filler. Easy to sand or carve, reasonably strong for its weight. Cures dark red/brown.
  • 410 Microlight: the lightest and easiest-sanding. Big fairing jobs only. WEST doesn't recommend it under dark paint or on surfaces that get hot. Cures light tan.

Generic wood flour from other suppliers works much like 405: a wood-colored structural filler for fillets and joints, often blended with silica to stop sag (TotalBoat, Jamestown Distributors).

Materials

  • Epoxy resin and its matching hardener
  • Adhesive fillers: 406 Colloidal Silica and 403 Microfibers cover most of it; 404 for hardware; 405 (or wood flour) for bright work
  • A fairing filler (410 or 407), kept on its own shelf
  • Clean mixing cups and stiff mixing sticks
  • Gloves, safety glasses and a dust mask while you're handling the powders
  • A scrap of plywood stood on edge for a consistency test

Tools

  • Disposable brush or small roller for the neat wet-out coat
  • Plastic spreader or putty knife
  • Syringe for injecting catsup-thick mix into tight spots
  • A labeled shelf or bin: adhesive fillers on one side, fairing fillers on the other

Steps

  1. Name the job before you open a tub. Is it a joint that carries load, a fillet, a bolt or fitting, a laminate, or a low spot you'll sand fair? Strength jobs get an adhesive filler. Sanding jobs get a fairing filler. That one decision keeps most mistakes off the boat.
  2. Pick the filler off the matrix. The plan above is WEST's selection guide in one chart. Glue joints, plank laps and scarfs: 403 or 406 (403 is the one WEST points at for wood). Bolts and hardware under load: 404, with 406 as the alternative. Fillets you'll paint: 406, the smoothest filleting mix. Fillets on bright wood: 405. Fairing: 410 or 407, and fairing got its own tip back in October, so I won't repeat it here.
  3. Mix the resin and hardener completely first. This is WEST's two-step rule for fillers: mix resin and hardener thoroughly, then add filler. Never stir powder into resin and then add hardener. Start with a small batch and leave room for the filler. For thick mixes, WEST says don't fill the cup more than a third full of epoxy before you add powder.
  4. Add filler a little at a time. Stir in small amounts until you reach the consistency you want, and get all of it blended before you apply it. Stir gently so the powder doesn't puff up into the air. There's no recipe to measure; WEST says to judge it by eye.
  5. Hit the right consistency for the job. WEST's four:
    • Syrup (unthickened): drips off a vertical surface. For coating, wetting out before bonding and fiberglass.
    • Catsup (slightly thickened): sags down a vertical surface. For laminating flat panels and injecting with a syringe.
    • Mayonnaise (moderately thickened): clings to a vertical surface, peaks fall over. For general bonding, filleting and hardware bonding.
    • Peanut butter (maximum thickness): clings, peaks stand up. For gap filling, fillets, fairing and bonding uneven surfaces.
    Not sure? Put a dab on the scrap of plywood standing on edge and watch what it does.
  6. For strength, don't overload it. WEST: add only enough filler to bridge the gaps without the mix sagging or running out of the joint. A small amount should squeeze out when you clamp. A stiffer glue mix isn't a stronger glue mix.
  7. Wet out first, then the thickened mix. On wood, WEST's preferred method is two-step bonding: brush neat epoxy on both faces so it soaks into the pores and end grain, then put the thickened mix on one face. You can add the filler to what's left of the wet-out batch, so mix enough for both steps. WEST says the one-step shortcut (thickened mix straight onto bare wood) isn't for highly loaded joints, especially end grain or other porous surfaces.
  8. Blend when one filler isn't quite right. WEST says fillers can be blended for in-between handling. A little 406 stiffens a mix that wants to sag, and WEST uses it to improve the consistency of other mixes. 405 shades a mix darker. For bright work, Epoxyworks suggests thickening with 406 and adding a little sanding dust from the same wood to match the color.

MOAM's shop note: Color is the one people forget until the varnish goes on. 404, 406 and 403 all cure off-white. On a painted hull nobody cares. On bright work, an off-white glue line or fillet shows like a chalk line on mahogany. On the dory, anything that'll be varnished gets 405 or 406 tinted with sanding dust from the same plank, and I test the color on a scrap first. The other thing: keep the fairing tubs on a different shelf from the glue tubs. 410 in a structural joint is a mistake you won't see until the boat's working in a chop off Tinker's Island.

Sources: WEST SYSTEM, Filler Selection Guide and individual filler pages (403, 404, 405, 406, 407, 410); WEST SYSTEM User Manual & Product Guide (2020 US edition: fillers, four consistencies, two-step filler rule, one-third-full cup, two-step and single-step bonding, hardware bonding); WEST SYSTEM User Manual (March 2025 edition: filler characteristics ratings for sanding); Epoxyworks, "The Basics of WEST SYSTEM Epoxy Resin and Hardener" (what each filler is made of, two-step bonding, 406 plus sanding dust for color) and "Furniture Building Tips"; TotalBoat, "Epoxy Fillers Guide"; Jamestown Distributors, "Which filler should I use for my epoxy project?" Ratings are WEST's for WEST products; other brands' fillers differ, so check your own maker's chart.

MOAM Out.

Saturday, November 07, 2026

Woodworking Tip of the Day: Hearing and Eye Protection You'll Actually Wear

Woodworking hearing and eye protection illustration

Not for nuthin'…. But….. the hearing and eye protection that stays in a drawer across the shop doesn't protect anything. I'm framing a Chamberlain Marblehead gunning dory this winter and hopping between quiet layout and loud cuts the same way I do on a GC job. Table saws, planers, routers, bandsaws and circular saws commonly sit well above 95 dBA at the operator — those are typical published ranges, not a meter reading of my bench. NIOSH's recommended exposure limit is 85 dBA as an 8-hour time-weighted average. Aim for about 75–85 dBA at the ear. Overprotect and people yank the gear off so they can hear the shop — then you're right back at unprotected noise.

Why it matters: Production woodworking almost certainly needs hearing protection (OSHA woodworking eTool), and PPE is the last line after you control noise at the source and along the path. Fit beats chasing the highest Noise Reduction Rating on the package — NRR is a lab number, not a guarantee of real-world attenuation. Earmuffs seal poorly against eyeglass temples and respirator straps (NIOSH's 5 Cs: comfort, compatibility, convenience, communication, cost). Eyewear has to meet ANSI Z87.1 and still be comfortable enough that you leave it on. And "just a quick cut" is still a cut — wear it every time the machine runs.

Materials

  • Disposable foam earplugs (keep a box at each loud machine)
  • Earmuffs and/or canal caps for intermittent on/off work
  • ANSI Z87.1 safety glasses that fit your face and don't wreck field of view
  • Face shield rated to wear OVER safety glasses (grinding, chop saw, aggressive routing)
  • Chemical splash goggles for epoxy, paint and solvent work
  • Optional: muffs designed to work with glasses / hardhat-mount muffs if that's your setup

Tools

  • Your loud machines: table saw, planer/jointer, bandsaw, router, circular saw, grinders, chop saw
  • Optional sound-level app or meter for a rough shop check (treat phone apps as ballpark, not a formal survey)
  • Hooks, a peg, or a small bin at each machine so PPE lives where the noise lives
Illustrated plan for hearing and eye protection

Steps

  1. Estimate the noise, don't invent a hero NRR. Typical published ranges (examples, not your shop): table / rip / bench saws often ~100–110 dB(A); planers/moulders ~100–105; circular saws ~97–104; bandsaws ~90–100; routers often ~93–108 depending on the tool. Use those as a starting point. Choose protection that brings the level at your ear into about 75–85 dBA. Don't chase the highest NRR as a hard requirement — fit and consistent wear matter more.
  2. Match the protector to the work pattern. Continuous loud machine runs: well-fitted foam plugs are often more comfortable for hours. Intermittent noisy work (GC site or boat shop hopping between quiet layout and loud cuts): muffs or canal caps are easier on and off. At 100 dBA or greater, or for impulse sounds: double up — earmuffs OVER earplugs (NIOSH).
  3. Fit the plugs. Roll foam plugs thin, insert deep, hold until they expand. Quick check if you don't have a formal fit test (NIOSH): count out loud while slowly cupping and uncupping your hands over your ears — your voice should sound about the same if the seal is good. If your voice changes a lot when you cup, reseat the plug.
  4. Respect compatibility. Safety-glass temples and respirator straps break an earmuff seal. When you need glasses and hearing protection together, prefer well-fitted foam plugs, or muffs made to work with glasses. Don't assume muffs alone are sealing if the cushions are riding on temple arms.
  5. Eyes: stack the right gear. Protective eyewear must meet ANSI Z87.1 (OSHA woodworking guide OSHA 3157). Wear Z87.1 glasses for flying chips and dust. For grinding, chop saws and similar, add a face shield OVER the glasses — a shield alone is not enough. For epoxy, paint and solvents, use chemical splash goggles. Choose glasses that fit, stay comfortable, don't wreck your field of view, and don't fight your respirator or muffs.
  6. Keep PPE at the machine. Convenience drives use. A box of plugs and a pair of muffs on a hook at the table saw beats the "good" kit in a drawer across the shop. Post a reminder where the noise is. Wear it for every cut — including the thirty-second one.
  7. Controls first, PPE last. Prefer quieter blades, sharp cutters, enclosure, distance and shorter exposure where you can. Hearing and eye protection are the last line, not a substitute for fixing the source when that's practical.

MOAM's shop note: On the dory and on a jobsite I'm not running one machine for eight straight hours — I'm laying out, then ripping, then routing a fairing block, then back to quiet work. So I keep foam plugs for the long sanding and planing sessions and muffs for the hop-on/off cuts. Glasses stay on my head, not in a shirt pocket. The gear you'll actually wear is the only gear that counts. Fancy NRR numbers in a drawer don't help anybody.

Sources: NIOSH / CDC, Provide Hearing Protection (REL 85 dBA as 8-hour TWA; aim ~75–85 dBA at the ear; avoid overprotection; double protection at ≥100 dBA or impulse; NRR is a lab rating — fit matters; foam-plug cup/uncup voice check; 5 Cs of selection); UK HSE RR1223 and HSE woodworking noise good practice (typical machine ranges: woodworking often >95 dB(A); planers/moulders ~100–105; bandsaws ~95–100; table/bench/ripsaws ~100–110; circular saws example 97–102); 3M Noise Navigator examples (table saw ~104 dBA at 90 cm; circular saw ~100–104; bandsaw ~90–95; routers often ~93–108); OSHA woodworking eTool (production woodworking almost certainly needs hearing protection; prefer source/path controls, PPE last); OSHA 3157 woodworking guide (ANSI Z87.1 eyewear; chips/dust and chemical splash). Ranges are typical/example published figures — not measurements of this shop.

MOAM Out.

Friday, November 06, 2026

Woodworking Tip of the Day: Honing Guides: Projection Distance Sets the Bevel Angle

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Honing guide illustration

Stick-out sets the bevel….. On an Eclipse-style honing guide, the distance from the roller face to the cutting edge tip is what locks in 25° or 30°. Get that projection right — and use the right slot — and every chisel and plane iron comes off the stones the same way. Mix up the slots or grab a Lie-Nielsen chart for a twenty-dollar clone and you'll hone angles that look fine and cut soft. I'm framing a Chamberlain Marblehead gunning dory this winter, and I don't have time to fight dull edges. So today: the numbers that stick.

Why it matters: Freehand honing works if you sharpen every day and never rock the bevel. Most of us don't. Asa Christiana at Fine Woodworking puts it plainly: a guide that rides on the stone holds the angle so every grit reaches the tip. The cheap side-clamp guides (the ubiquitous $15–25 Eclipse-style clones) are calibrated by projection. Measure wrong once and you keep copying that wrong angle. Wrong slot is the most common setup mistake — the narrow lower jaw is for chisels, the wide upper jaw for plane irons, and they are not interchangeable.

Materials

  • Eclipse-style side-clamp honing guide (~$15–25; roller rides on the stone)
  • Waterstones, oilstones, or diamond plates — a 1000, a 4000 and an 8000 (or your shop's equivalent progression)
  • A ruler marked in millimeters (or a shopmade stop board with the four distances marked once)
  • Optional: scrap board, stop fence and pencil for a permanent projection jig; a protractor to check a new guide
  • The chisel or plane iron you're sharpening

Tools

  • Honing guide (Eclipse-style for these numbers)
  • Flattened stones — a dished stone will round the edge no matter how careful you are
  • Ruler or stop board
  • Optional leather strop with compound for the final polish
Honing guide projection plan

Steps

  1. Know which slot you're in. Narrow lower slot = chisels. Wide upper slot = plane irons. Same projection in the wrong slot gives a completely different angle. That is the number-one mistake on these guides.
  2. Measure projection from the roller face to the tip. For an Eclipse-style guide: chisel 40 mm → 25°, 30 mm → 30°. Plane iron 50 mm → 25°, 38 mm → 30°. Longer stick-out = shallower bevel. Shorter stick-out = steeper bevel.
  3. Don't mix charts. A Lie-Nielsen honing guide uses different numbers — 25° is 1-1/2" (38.10 mm) and 30° is 1-5/32" (29.36 mm). Veritas and other guides have their own tables. Use the chart that came with your guide, or check the angle with a protractor and mark your own stop board. Never borrow Eclipse numbers for a Lie-Nielsen body, or the other way around.
  4. Grind the primary, hone the secondary. Christiana's method: grind the primary bevel around 25° (sandpaper on glass, coarse diamond, or a careful grinder), then set the guide a little steeper — about 27–28° — and hone a secondary microbevel. Go higher for chisels you pound and chop with, and for some bevel-up plane irons. The microbevel is a narrow band at the tip; that's what you refresh between grindings.
  5. Work the stones in order. Start around 1000 grit to establish the secondary, then 4000, then 8000. Keep light, even pressure behind the cutting edge so the edge stays square. The guide's roller has to ride on the stone — not on the bench beside it. Stones vary in thickness; if the roller rides off the stone, the angle changes every time you switch grits.
  6. Flatten the back once; remove the burr every time. New tools get the back flattened and polished near the edge with no guide — once. After honing the bevel, take the blade out of the guide and give the back a few light strokes on the finest stone to knock off the wire edge.
  7. Make a stop board. Popular Woodworking and the Lie-Nielsen angle-setting jig idea are the same shop trick: a scrap with a fence and marks at your working projections. Butt the tip to the mark, clamp, tighten. Thirty seconds instead of a ruler every session.

MOAM's shop note: Measure once, mark a stop board, quit guessing. On the dory work — gains, bevels, frame cheeks — I want 25° for most paring and a steeper secondary when I'm chopping. The guide doesn't care how fancy the stone is if the stick-out is wrong. And if you bought a fancy guide, use that guide's chart. Mixing charts is how you spend an hour "sharpening" and still tear end grain.

Sources: Fine Woodworking / Asa Christiana, "How to Use a Honing Guide" and "Get Sharp Fast" (primary ~25°, secondary ~27–28°, stones 1000→4000→8000, back flatten once, burr on the back, roller on the stone); Lie-Nielsen honing guide blade projections (25° = 1-1/2" / 38.10 mm; 30° = 1-5/32" / 29.36 mm) and L-N angle-setting jig PDF; Popular Woodworking, "Sharpening Angles for Dullards" (stop-block approach); WoodWiki honing-guide setup (Eclipse projections: chisel 40/30 mm, plane iron 50/38 mm; wrong slot = wrong angle). Check your own guide's chart before you trust any table.

MOAM Out.

Thursday, November 05, 2026

Woodworking Tip of the Day: Paint Over Epoxy: Wash, Sand and Prime So the Topcoat Sticks

This is catching the MOAM's attention today….. the day the epoxy finally cures hard on a hull panel and somebody reaches for the paint can. On the Chamberlain Marblehead gunning dory, that barrier coat of epoxy is only half the job. Paint protects the epoxy from sunlight, and the epoxy gives the paint a stable base. Together they last a lot longer than either one alone. But paint does not stick to glossy, blushy epoxy. You wash, you sand, you prime when the system calls for it, and then the topcoat goes on. Skip a step and you get fish-eyes, peeling, or a finish that never quite dries.

Why it matters: WEST SYSTEM's finish guidance is blunt: before paint or varnish, the epoxy surface has to be clean, dry and sanded. Amine blush, that waxy film that shows up when epoxy cures in cool, damp air, will clog sandpaper and kill adhesion if you leave it. Solvents don't take it off. Water does. And once the epoxy is fully cured, paint adhesion is mechanical — the film keys into the sanding scratches. Too fine a grit and there isn't enough tooth. Paint the wrong system over a dirty surface and you're scraping it next spring.

Materials

  • Fully cured epoxy on the work (not the soft, tacky gel stage)
  • Clean water and a Scotch-Brite pad (WEST calls out the 7447 general-purpose pad)
  • Plain white paper towels
  • Aluminum oxide sandpaper in the grit your coating wants (no stearate-coated paper)
  • Primer if the paint maker calls for it — high-build for filling scratches, or a two-part epoxy primer such as Interlux Epoxy Primekote under Brightside
  • The topcoat itself: marine enamel, one-part urethane, two-part LP, varnish, or bottom paint as the job requires
  • A scrap test panel coated the same way as the boat

Tools

  • Bucket, scrub pad, and fresh rinse water
  • Random-orbit sander or a sanding block; vacuum or brush for dust
  • Optional: wet/dry paper if you want to wash and sand in one pass
  • Roller and tip-off brush, or spray gear if the coating allows it
  • Gloves, eye protection, and whatever respirator the paint label requires

Steps

  1. Let the last epoxy coat cure fully. The green, tacky recoat window is for epoxy on epoxy. Before paint, varnish, primer or gelcoat, WEST says let the epoxy cure hard, then wash and sand. Cool shops and slow hardeners can take days. If a one-part paint won't dry over it, unfinished cure is a common reason.
  2. Wash the blush off first. Scrub with clean water and a Scotch-Brite pad. Dry with paper towels while the surface is still wet so the dissolved blush comes off on the towel instead of drying back down. WEST says plain water is enough; soap, ammonia or bleach can leave their own film. Interlux allows warm water and a little all-purpose soap — if you use soap, rinse hard. Change the wash water. Don't reach for acetone: Interlux and WEST both say aggressive solvents don't remove amine blush.
  3. Then sand. Paint grips the scratches. Start at 80 grit if you have runs, sags or leftover gloss after the wash. For a high-build or filling primer, WEST says 80–100 grit is usually enough. For most primers and high-solid coatings, 120–180 grit. For a high-gloss paint or varnish, finish at 220–400. Grits finer than that may not leave enough tooth. Always finish at the grit the coating maker lists. Wet-sanding removes blush and dust in one pass if you prefer that route.
  4. Rinse and check the water break. After you're happy with the fairing, rinse with fresh water. The water should sheet evenly. If it beads or fish-eyes, you've still got contamination — wipe with solvent and a paper towel, wet-sand again, and recheck. Vacuum or brush off dry dust; skip sticky tack rags on epoxy (WEST warns the residue can cause fish-eyes).
  5. Coat soon. WEST's tip: start the primer or paint within about 24 hours of the final sanding so the surface doesn't pick up shop film again. The surface has to be thoroughly dry.
  6. Prime when the system wants it. WEST says primers are usually not required for adhesion on epoxy — the paint keys into the sanding scratches — but high-build primers are useful for hiding scratches and fairing marks, and some bottom paints want their own interface primer. Self-etching primers don't work on cured epoxy. For Interlux Brightside over clear epoxy, the Brightside data calls for washing off amine blush, sanding with 80 grit, then one to two coats of Epoxy Primekote before the topcoat. Interlux also prefers a two-part primer over a single-part Pre-Kote when blush is a concern, because blush can migrate through one-part primers and spoil the cure of Brightside.
  7. Apply the topcoat per the can. Follow the maker's recoat windows, sanding between coats, and temperature range. WEST ranks two-part linear polyurethanes as the most durable UV protection over epoxy; alkyds and one-part urethanes are easier but less tough, and some one-part urethanes fight amine-cure epoxy (WEST notes 207 Special Clear Hardener can help compatibility — test). Bottom paints are usually fine over a prepared epoxy barrier; use only primers rated for below the waterline under them.
  8. Make a test panel. WEST and the paint makers both say it: a scrap piece coated and prepped the same way as the boat tells you whether your wash, grit and primer actually stick before you commit the hull.

MOAM's shop note: Wash first, sand second. Every time. Sanding a blushy surface just grinds the wax into the scratches, and then no amount of primer saves you. On a cool, damp Marblehead week, assume blush is there even when the panel looks glossy and clean. One wash at the end of the epoxy schedule beats three peeling seasons.

Sources: WEST SYSTEM, "Final Epoxy Surface" (final surface prep, grit ranges, 24-hour coating window, water-break rinse); WEST SYSTEM, "Surface Preparation" (amine blush wash with water and Scotch-Brite 7447, wash-before-sand, full cure before non-epoxy coatings); WEST SYSTEM, "Finish Coatings" (UV role of paint over epoxy, primer guidance, self-etching primers, coating types, test panel); Epoxyworks, Joe Parker, "Comparing Surface Prep Techniques for Paints and Primers" (Awlgrip 545 / Brightside adhesion test; 80-grit under primer, 120-grit on primer); Interlux, "What is amine blush…" (wash before sanding; solvents don't remove blush; Brightside / Pre-Kote / Epoxy Primekote notes); Interlux Brightside data (clear epoxy: remove blush, 80 grit, Epoxy Primekote, then Brightside). Check your own product data sheets for recoat times and final grit.

MOAM Out.

Wednesday, November 04, 2026

Woodworking Tip of the Day: Gluing End Grain: Why It Starves and How to Size It First

Gluing end grain: size it first

Not for nuthin'…. But….. the joint that looks the best coming out of the clamps is sometimes the weakest one in the whole piece, and it's almost always the one where the end of a board meets something else. End grain. You brush on glue, clamp it up, wipe it clean, and it looks great. Then the corner lets go, and the face of the joint looks dry. I'm building a Chamberlain Marblehead gunning dory and I've been a licensed contractor long enough to have seen miters, butt joints and plank ends open up. So today: why end grain starves a joint, how to size it with yellow glue, how to prime it with epoxy, and the real fix, which is to stop relying on it at all.

Why it matters: Franklin, the company behind Titebond, explains it with a drinking straw. Gluing end grain is like gluing the ends of two straws together instead of the sides. There's much less wood surface for the glue to grab, and most of what you're looking at is air. Worse, a thin glue can be drawn down the open pores by capillary action, which leaves a starved joint, or the end grain can suck the water out of the glue so fast it dries before you get the parts together. Fine Woodworking's Matthew Kenney says the same about a miter: end grain "sucks up glue like crazy" and will starve the joint long before the glue has a chance to dry.

And even a well-prepped end-grain joint has a ceiling. The USDA Forest Products Laboratory's Wood Handbook says it is practically impossible to make an end-grain butt joint strong enough for ordinary service with conventional bonding techniques, and that even with special techniques a butt joint only reaches about 25% of the tensile strength of the wood along the grain. A well-made scarf, finger or lap joint can reach up to 90%. That's the whole point of today's tip: sizing helps, and for light-duty work it's plenty, but the strong joint is the one where the glue meets long grain.

Materials

  • Yellow glue (PVA) suited to the job, plus water and a small cup for the size
  • Epoxy resin and hardener, with a filler (colloidal silica or microfibers) for the thickened coat
  • A thicker glue, if you want that route (Titebond No Run, No Drip is made for end grain and miters)
  • Painter's tape or packing tape for light clamping on miters
  • Clean, freshly cut end grain. Sand or plane it right before you glue it, and keep oil and finish off it

Tools

  • A sharp saw, plane or shooting board, so the joint closes with no gaps
  • Cheap brushes (acid brushes are fine) for the size and the glue
  • Mixing sticks and a clean mixing cup for epoxy
  • A damp rag or a putty knife for squeeze-out
  • Optional: a heat gun for gently warming the wood before the epoxy wet-out
  • Clamps, or tape, to hold the joint with light, even pressure
Plan: sizing and gluing end grain

Steps

  1. Ask first: do I have to glue end grain? Titebond's own tip begins by admitting that good joint design minimizes the need for gluing end grain, though sometimes it's unavoidable. For ends that have to join end to end, use a scarf, finger or lap. The Forest Products Lab says solid wood wants a slope of 1 in 12 or flatter for the highest strength, and 1 in 8 is typical for plywood. For an end meeting the edge of another piece, the Lab says a plain end-to-edge joint has a hard time carrying much load, and recommends interlocking joints so edge grain bonds to edge grain: dowels, mortise and tenons or rabbets.
  2. Make it fit. A size can't fill a gap. Kenney's point is that if the joints are tight, you get a good glue line and a strong joint. Dry-fit it, and fix the cut, not the glue.
  3. Mix the size. Titebond's mix is one part glue to one to two parts water. Fine Woodworking and Franklin's technical presentation both say 50/50 glue and water, which is inside that range. Brush it on the end grain only.
  4. Decide how long to let it work. Titebond's tip says let it soak in no more than two minutes, then continue with a regular application of glue. Kenney and Franklin's presentation describe a size that soaks in and dries first, plugging the pores, and then you glue normally. Both end up in the same place, which is pores that are plugged before the full-strength glue goes on. If you go the dry route, plan the wait into the glue-up so you aren't sizing and gluing in a rush.
  5. Glue it normally. Put full-strength glue on, fit the parts, and watch your open time (it depends on the glue and the temperature). Franklin's presentation says the point of the size is that the end grain then doesn't drink the glue or dry it out before assembly. If you don't want to size, the other route is a thicker glue: Franklin lists Titebond No Run, No Drip at about 36,000 cps against about 4,000 cps for most wood glues, and says it sets with minimal clamping.
  6. Clamp it lightly and wipe squeeze-out. End-grain joints on small boxes and frames often get tape instead of clamps. Kenney points to a painter's tape trick for miters. One reader on his post notes that tape can hide squeeze-out, which is hard to clean off a crisp miter later, so wipe it before you tape.
  7. With epoxy, wet out first. For end grain, WEST SYSTEM says use two-step bonding. Brush unthickened epoxy onto both mating faces, and re-wet very porous surfaces and end grain, because they soak it up. WEST says single-step bonding (thickened epoxy straight on both faces) shouldn't be used for end grain or other porous surfaces, and that neat epoxy keys into end grain better than thick epoxy.
  8. Then the thickened coat. Stir filler into your mix until it's thick enough to bridge gaps, put it on one surface before the wet-out epoxy cures (WEST's 2020 manual says before it's no longer tacky), and clamp with just enough pressure to squeeze a small amount out, about a firm hand grip. Too much pressure can squeeze it all out and starve the joint.
  9. Give the epoxy a warm start. WEST's Wooden Boat manual notes that warming the wood with a heat gun makes epoxy thinner so it penetrates more deeply into exposed end grain. Gougeon Brothers' crew did the same on mast scarfs, pre-warming the joints before priming them with unthickened epoxy because wood that is cooling draws epoxy into the grain. Keep the heat gentle and the wood well short of scorched.
  10. Add glue area where you can. WEST's manual says the three things behind joint strength are the glue, the adhesion and the joint area, and that increased overlap, scarf joints, fillets and reinforcing fibers all add bonding area. An epoxy fillet in an inside corner also acts as a structural brace.

MOAM's shop note: Sizing is a fix for starving, not for geometry. If the joint carries a load, or has to live through a wet winter on a boat, change the joint, not the glue. Scarf it, lap it, tenon it, or fillet it. And don't clamp harder to make up for a dry joint. Squeezing won't put back glue the end grain already drank.

Sources: Titebond (Franklin International), "Did you know? Get good results gluing end grain joints" (titebond.com, Woodworking Glues, application tips); Franklin / Titebond presentation, "A Word on End Grain Gluing"; Matthew Kenney, "Not all miters need reinforcement," Fine Woodworking, Feb. 27, 2015; USDA Forest Products Laboratory, Wood Handbook, Chapter 10 (FPL-GTR-190), "End-Grain Joints" and "End-to-Edge-Grain Joints"; WEST SYSTEM, "Bonding and Clamping," the Epoxy Problem Solver, the WEST SYSTEM User Manual (2020), and the Restoration & Repair (Wooden Boat) manual; Epoxyworks, "Choosing Glue!" (Russell Brown). Open times, clamp pressure and ratings vary by product, so check the data sheet for your glue.

MOAM Out.

Tuesday, November 03, 2026

Woodworking Tip of the Day: Measuring Epoxy Right: Mix Ratios, Pumps and Why 'Close Enough' Fails

Measuring Epoxy Right: Mix Ratios, Pumps and Why Close Enough Fails

Pull up a stool….. this is the least glamorous step in epoxy work, and it decides whether the rest of the job lives or dies. Nobody brags about measuring. But most of the sticky, gummy, "why won't this cure" stories start right here, and WEST SYSTEM says so too: most problems with the curing of epoxy can be traced to the wrong ratio of resin and hardener. Winter is coming, the shop is cold, and I'd rather scrape nothing off the dory this year.

Why it matters: Epoxy isn't paint that dries. It's two parts that react with each other, and the reaction only finishes if the right amounts meet. An Epoxyworks article from WEST SYSTEM's technical staff puts it this way: with excess hardener, hardener molecules stay unreacted in the cured epoxy and weaken it, and they can keep later paint coats from setting up. Too little hardener is no better. WEST says too much or too little hardener affects both the cure time and how thoroughly it cures. That's why their manual says, in capital letters, not to adjust the cure time by changing the ratio. If you want it faster or slower, pick a different hardener. The ratio stays put.

Materials

  • Resin and the hardener made for it (same system, same brand)
  • Matching calibrated pumps, or a scale, or straight-sided graduated cups
  • Clean mixing containers: plastic, metal or wax-free paper (not glass, not foam)
  • Mixing sticks with a flat end
  • A stiff plastic or metal scraper and a solvent for the bad-batch day
  • Gloves, safety glasses and paper towels
  • Your product's data sheet, because the numbers below are WEST SYSTEM's and other brands differ

Tools

  • 300 Mini Pumps (or a gram scale, or a stick marked in equal parts)
  • Roller pan, for coating jobs, to get the mix out of the cup
  • A small test cup for the pump check
Plan: epoxy mix ratios, pumps, mixing and bad-batch cleanup

Steps

  1. Read the ratio off your hardener. With WEST SYSTEM 105 Resin, the 205 Fast and 206 Slow hardeners are 5 parts resin to 1 part hardener by volume. The 207 Special Clear and 209 Extra Slow are 3 to 1. The pumps are matched to the hardener, so a 205/206 pump and a 207/209 pump aren't interchangeable, and the group size (A, B or C) has to match too. Other makers use other ratios: System Three Clear Coat is 2 to 1 by volume, and MAS LV resin is 2 to 1. Check your product's data sheet.
  2. Prove the pumps once. If equal full strokes are going in, the resin and hardener containers should run empty at about the same time. WEST's pump sheet also says to mix a small test batch and watch it: it should cure to a hard solid, overnight at room temperature or warmer. Epoxyworks suggests 3 strokes each, stirred thoroughly, left until fully cured. Do it with new pumps, and again any time curing acts up.
  3. One full stroke of resin for each full stroke of hardener. Push the head all the way down, then let it come all the way back up before the next stroke. WEST says partial strokes give the wrong ratio. Same number of strokes from each pump, every batch. In a cold shop the pumps move thicker material, so press slowly and give them extra time to return. Keep the resin and hardener at room temperature if you can.
  4. No pumps? Measure carefully. By volume, use a container with straight sides and a square inside corner, graduated or marked with a stick, and pour the resin first. Epoxyworks points out it's easier to see the space for the hardener that way. By weight, don't use the volume numbers. The weight ratios are different because the resin and hardener have different densities. For WEST 105, the data sheets give 5.19 to 1 (205), 5.36 to 1 (206), 3.64 to 1 (207) and 3.68 to 1 (209). Per 100 g of resin, that's roughly 19.3 g, 18.7 g, 27.5 g and 27.2 g of hardener. The manual rounds 205/206 to "five parts resin to one part hardener" and 207/209 to 3.5 to 1 by weight, which sit inside the data sheets' acceptable ranges. Use the data sheet, though. That's why the plan has a table.
  5. Stir at least a minute and scrape as you go. WEST's US instructions say at least 1 minute, longer in cooler temperatures. Their March 2025 manual's figure says 2 minutes. In a November shop I go with the longer one. Scrape the sides and bottom, and use the flat end of the stick to get into the inside corner. Unmixed resin hiding in the corner is how you get a soft spot. MAS Epoxies makes the same point about soft spots, and adds a pouring tip: don't scrape the last drips and film off the walls of the cup onto your work, since that's the part that might not be mixed.
  6. Thicken after, never before. WEST's manual calls it a two-step process: mix the resin and hardener thoroughly first, then blend in the filler in small amounts. Their problem solver says the same thing: only add fillers or additives after the resin and hardener have been thoroughly mixed.
  7. If it's still tacky when it should be hard, think before you recoat. If the shop is cold, epoxy cures slower, so allow extra time and add gentle heat (WEST warns that unvented kerosene or propane heaters can inhibit the cure and contaminate the surface). If it was off ratio or under-mixed, waiting won't fix it.
  8. Remove the bad batch. WEST says don't apply more epoxy over non-curing epoxy. Warm it to lower its viscosity and scrape off as much as you can with a stiff metal or plastic scraper. Clean the residue with a solvent (WEST's current manual names its 850 Cleaning Solvent), with plenty of ventilation. Let the solvent dry before you recoat, then recoat with a fresh batch.
  9. Find out why before you mix again. Equal full strokes? The right pump for the hardener (5:1 or 3:1) and the right group size? Pump ratio checked? Resin and hardener from the same system? WEST's list also includes wrong products: resin won't cure properly with other brands of hardener.

MOAM's shop note: "Close enough" has a real meaning, and it isn't eyeballing. WEST's data sheets publish an acceptable ratio range by weight for each hardener (4.83 to 6.20 to 1 for 105/205, for example), and it's wider on the resin-rich side. Calibrated pumps used with full, equal strokes keep you comfortably in it. A cup poured by eye, a half-pumped stroke, or a "splash more hardener to speed it up" is how you end up outside it. If you slip, err toward a little extra resin, not extra hardener. Epoxyworks says the same about a pump that spits air. Then write the hardener, ratio and pump strokes on the shop wall once, and stop doing the math on the fly.

Sources: WEST SYSTEM, "Dispensing and Mixing" and "Epoxy Problem Solver" (westsystem.com); WEST SYSTEM User Manual & Product Guide (2020 US edition and March 2025 edition); WEST SYSTEM 300 Mini Pump Instructions; WEST SYSTEM data sheets for 105/205, 105/206, 105/207 and 105/209; Epoxyworks, "Getting the Most out of Mini Pumps" (Jim Derck, GBI, 1995); System Three, Clear Coat product page and data sheet; MAS Epoxies, "The Ultimate Guide for Mixing Epoxy Resin" and 2:1 LV resin page; Entropy Resins technical video, "Mix Ratio: Measuring and Mixing Epoxy". Ratios and mixing times differ by product, so check your own data sheet.

MOAM Out.

Monday, November 02, 2026

MOAM: Question 7, Starter Homes vs. Local Control. What It Could Mean for the North Shore

MOAM: Question 7, Starter Homes vs. Local Control. What It Could Mean for the North Shore

Tomorrow, Tuesday, Nov. 3, Massachusetts voters decide ten ballot questions. As a Marblehead REALTOR®, the one I get asked about most is Question 7, "Single Family Homes."

What a yes vote does

A yes vote would allow a single-family home in any residentially zoned area on a lot of at least 5,000 square feet with at least 50 feet of frontage and access to public water and sewer. Today, each city and town sets its own minimum lot size. Under Question 7, a lot that meets those three tests could get a single-family home by right, even where local zoning now requires a bigger lot.

Towns would still be able to regulate height, distance from neighboring buildings, open space, parking and short-term rentals, and the state's Executive Office of Housing and Livable Communities could issue regulations. Boston, which has its own zoning statute, is exempt. A no vote changes nothing.

The case for

Wesley Lima of Legalize Starter Homes signed the argument in favor. Supporters see it as one way to add housing supply in a state struggling with high prices and limited inventory. Smaller lots mean smaller, less expensive homes. Those are the "starter homes" young families tell me they can't find, and the right-sized homes downsizers want so they can stay in town.

The case against

Adam Chapdelaine of the Massachusetts Municipal Association signed the argument against. Opponents say zoning should stay mainly under local control, and that one statewide standard can't account for the differences between communities.

Here in Marblehead, Select Board Chair Dan Fox opposes it. He told the Marblehead Current that in a built-out town "where small lots, narrow streets, infrastructure limitations, parking and neighborhood character all matter," eliminating local zoning requirements "could have significant unintended consequences." Planning Board Chair Marc Liebman also opposes it, saying it could "majorly reshape our neighborhoods, density and population."

Don't confuse it with MBTA Communities

Marblehead just finished a separate zoning fight. On Oct. 26 the state found the town in compliance with the MBTA Communities Act, accepting a 40.8-acre multifamily district built mostly on Tedesco Country Club land, with estimated capacity for 900 units. That law covers multifamily housing. Question 7 covers single-family lots. They are two different things.

What it could mean for prices and inventory

Honestly, nobody knows yet. The state's own fiscal statement says new housing "could provide positive new growth revenues" but the scale is "difficult to project." The Marblehead Independent noted that the available figures don't show how many Marblehead lots it would affect. In older North Shore towns, many lots are already smaller than 5,000 square feet, so the bigger change may come in towns with large-lot zoning. Over time, more buildable lots could mean more inventory and some relief on prices for entry-level buyers. It could also mean more teardowns and tighter streets. That's the trade-off on the ballot.

Whatever you decide, please vote tomorrow. Polls are open 7 a.m. to 8 p.m.

So what do you think? Should the state set a floor for starter homes, or should each town keep the final say on its own lots?

Questions about what Question 7 could mean for your property? Call or text me at 781-727-6516, or visit nanepashemet.com.

John Nestor, REALTOR®, Marblehead

#MOAM #Question7 #Marblehead #NorthShore #mapoli

Sources

Friday, October 23, 2026

Two Lives, One Deed: Thomas Pitman, Wenepoykin, and Marblehead's 1684 Bargain

Every Marbleheader has walked past the framed 1684 deed in Abbot Hall. I've looked at it a hundred times. Only recently did I learn that one of the men who helped bring it about was my own ancestor, Thomas Pitman. By my family records he is my 9th great-grandfather. On the other side of that parchment stands Wenepoykin, son of Nanepashemet. He is the man at the center of my novel, The Wing. The two of them were born within a few years of each other. Their lives ran side by side for seventy years, and they met on paper only after one of them had died.

Here is their story, told side by side and as close to the records as I can keep it.

Two boys, two worlds (c.1612–1633)

Nobody knows exactly where Thomas Pitman came from. He was born somewhere around 1612 to 1617. His own sworn ages in court drift across those years, which was common at the time. You'll see a 1612 baptism at Wedmore, Somerset, repeated online, but it rests on nothing more than a matching name. One family historian writing in 1913 called his ancestry "unknown," and I'll leave it there. The Pitman name is heavily a Somerset and Dorset name, so a West Country origin is likely. That is a probability, not a fact.

Wenepoykin was born around 1616, on the shores the English would call Lynn and Marblehead. John Higginson, born in 1616 himself, later testified that George (the English name for Wenepoykin) was "young then about my Age." His father, Nanepashemet, was dead by the fall of 1621. In December 1633 smallpox swept the coast. Governor Winthrop wrote that "John Sagamore died of the small pox, and almost all his people," and that "James Sagamore of Sagus died also, and most of his folks." Those were Wenepoykin's older brothers. At about seventeen he became sagamore of what was left.

A fisherman comes to Marblehead (1640s)

We don't know when Thomas crossed the Atlantic or on what ship, and no English record yet tells us where he was born or what he did there. He first appears in February 1646, standing surety for a neighbor in the Salem court, years after the great Puritan migration had ended. Marblehead was a rough fishing station, not a pious village. Governor Winthrop dismissed its fishermen that year as "profane persons, divers of them brought the last year from Newfoundland to fish a season."

Everything about Thomas suggests he came for work, for fish, land and a better living than the struggling West Country could offer, where pirates were taking ships, men were being pressed into the navy, and civil war had broken out. He did not come to build a godly commonwealth. Marblehead had no church of its own until 1684, and nothing shows him joining Salem's. Yet he became a pillar of the place anyway: as constable in 1659 he reported neighbors who had taken up with the Quakers, he helped pay for the meeting-house, and in old age he was probably made a freeman of the colony.

He stayed. In 1648, the year Marblehead became its own town, the commons were divided among 44 families, and the list reads "Tho. Pitman, 2 cows." Most families got one. In 1657 Thomas, "of Marblehead, fisherman," bought a house and barn. In 1658 he was sworn constable. Over the next decades he served as fence surveyor and as selectman, and in 1670 a witness to a street brawl saw "Thomas Pitman & his foare sons." He raised six known children with his wife, Joan or Jane. One of them, John, married Charity Gale in 1681. My own line runs through John.

During those same years, Wenepoykin's land was slipping away. In 1652 he mortgaged Nahant to Nicholas Davison of Charlestown for £20. He pressed the General Court over his late brother's land and got nowhere. The missionary John Eliot judged in 1649 that the Lynn Indians were "all naught" because "their sachem … careth not to pray to God." Wenepoykin married Joane Ahawayet, daughter of the Nahant sachem called Black Will. In time he moved north to Wamesit, in what became Chelmsford.

An inquest, a war, an island (1664–c.1683)

The two worlds touched early. In December 1664 Thomas Pitman sat, signing with his mark, on the jury of inquest into the death of "an Indian named Peter," found frozen on the highway at the edge of Marblehead.

In 1672 an Indian court at Natick heard old Ahaton swear that "George Saggamore wth no nose was Saggamore of ye place where marblehead is seated." Wenepoykin agreed that his kinsman James Rumney Marsh could deal for the Marblehead land, provided George received half the pay.

Then came King Philip's War. On 25 August 1675, "Mark Pitman of Marblehead," very likely Thomas's kinsman, was killed in the fight near Hatfield. Wenepoykin, by later accounts, sided against the English. Those accounts are secondary, and the details of his part in the war are undocumented. He was captured in 1675 or 1676, depending on the source, and he ended up in Barbados. Selling war captives into Caribbean slavery was common, so enslavement is the likeliest reading. The romantic story that John Eliot won his release is tradition, not record. What is on record is a 1686 deposition: "Sagamore George when he came from Barbados he lived Sometime and dyed at ye house of James Rumley Marsh," at Natick. Before he died he left his land claims to James. He was dead before July 1684.

July 1684: the paths cross

By 1684 the colony's charter was under threat from the Crown, and land titles suddenly mattered. "James the Indian and some other Indians" pressed their claim to Marblehead. On 14 July 1684 the commoners met, and the town records read:

"it is votted and agread to by generall consent that Mr Mosis Maverick mr John Deverix Capt Samll Ward mr Thedeous Riddan William Beall Thomas Pittman Richard Read and Nathanill Waltown be Joyned as a Comittee with the present Select men of the Town to mack Inquierie into the saied afaiere and sarch after the pretended Claieme and truth of thear title…"

Thomas, now about seventy, was one of eight men chosen to look into the claim. Only Ward and Devereux were empowered to strike the bargain, and they moved fast. Four days later, on 18 July 1684, the heirs sealed the deed for £16 "Currant money of New England." Those heirs were Wenepoykin's widow Joane, "relict Widdow of George Saggamore als Wenepawweekin late of Chelmsford," their daughters Susannah and Sarah, their grandchildren, and James Rumney Marsh's family. The deed was acknowledged that day before Governor Simon Bradstreet. (You'll sometimes see "16 September 1684." The parchment says July 18.)

Then the bill came due. On 6 August the proprietors

"Impowred mr Samuell Chevers Samuell ward Thomas Pittman and Nathanill Walltown to Joyn as a Comittee with The Select men to proportion each mans part acording to his privellidg in saied township and thay proportioning by Cows leases fiend it to amount to nien pence pr Cow in mony."

So the fisherman who got two cow rights in 1648 helped work out what each cow right owed for the town's title. It came to ninepence apiece.

Historian Sidney Perley noted that this Thomas Pitman "was of Marblehead when it became a town, in 1648." There was also a younger Thomas, so I can't be absolutely certain it was the elder. Everything points that way. Thomas Pitman died in the summer of 1694, ten years after the deed.

Why it matters to me

Wenepoykin never signed that deed. He had agreed to it in principle in 1672, then lived through war, slavery and exile, and died before the paper existed. Thomas never met the heirs face to face, as far as we know. His job was the inquiry and then the arithmetic. Still, the two men were near-exact contemporaries on the same shore, and one document ties their families together for good. When I stand in Abbot Hall now, I see both of them.

Sources

Thursday, October 22, 2026

The Snow House: 58 Front Street and the Harbor It Grew Up Beside


 

Walk down Front Street toward Fort Sewall and you're walking through some of the oldest housing stock in New England. One house I want to start this series with is No. 58, listed in the state's historic inventory as the Snow House.

What the record says

The Massachusetts Cultural Resource Information System (MACRIS), the state's inventory of historic places, carries 58 Front St. as inventory number MAR.361, the "Snow House," with a date of 1747. I haven't yet seen the full inventory form, so I can't tell you who the Snows were, whether the 1747 date is documented or estimated, or who built the house. I'd rather tell you that plainly than guess.

What I can tell you is the company it keeps. On the same stretch of Front Street, the inventory lists the Laskey House at No. 50 (1725), No. 54 (1720), the William Bowler House across the way at No. 57 (1745), and the Ruth Morse House at No. 47 (1750). Further down are the Bartoll houses at Nos. 31, 33 and 39, from about 1740–1760. No. 58 is one of a row of mid-1700s houses that have stood beside the harbor for more than 275 years.

The street around it (context, not the house's own story)

To understand a house like this, you have to understand the water out front.

Marblehead was built on cod. After a visit in 1660, the King's agent reported back to England that Marblehead was "the Greatest Towne for Fishing in New England." Fishermen from Cornwall and the Channel Islands settled here. By 1837 the town's fleet numbered 98 vessels, 95 of them over fifty tons. Then came September 19, 1846. A hurricane-force gale caught the fleet on the Grand Banks, at least eleven vessels never came home, and sixty-five men and boys were lost. The town marks that storm as the start of the fishery's decline.

Front Street ends at Fort Sewall. The fort began as an earthwork on Gale's Head in 1644 to protect the fishing fleet from pirates, the French and the Dutch. It was manned in the French and Indian War and the Revolution. On April 3, 1814, the USS Constitution, chased by two British frigates, ran into Marblehead Harbor under the fort's guns and got away. Whoever lived at No. 58 that spring was a short walk from the action.

The neighborhood also sent men to war by sea. John Glover's Marblehead regiment, commissioned in 1775, crewed the schooner Hannah, which the town calls America's first naval vessel, and on Christmas night 1776 rowed Washington across the Delaware.

Today the house sits inside the Marblehead Historic District, listed on the National Register of Historic Places on January 10, 1984. The district runs roughly from the harbor to Waldron Court and Essex, Elm, Pond and Norman Streets.

Why I care about houses like this

Nanepashemet Real Estate is the proud rental agent and property manager of 58 Front St., so this one is personal. I'm a broker, but I'm also a builder, and a house that has stood since the 1740s earns my respect. Houses this old have carried generations of families through storms, wars and good years on the water. They also come with their own quirks: framing, chimneys, wiring and drainage that a careful owner learns to watch. If anyone has deeds, family papers or old photos of 58 Front St. and the Snows, I'd love to hear from you, and I'll update this story.

Own an old Marblehead house and wondering what it would take to sell it someday? My seller checklist is a good place to start. Or call or text me at 781-727-6516.

Photo: Front Street, Marblehead, on a 1914 postcard (public domain, via Wikimedia Commons). The photo shows the street, not necessarily No. 58.

Monday, October 19, 2026

30-Year Rate Holds at 7.40% + Marblehead & Lynnfield Numbers | North Shore Real Estate Weekly

This is catching the MOAM's attention today….. the 30-year mortgage rate held at 7.40% for a second week, still the highest Freddie Mac weekly average since mid-November 2023. Here's this week's short video with the real numbers for Marblehead and Lynnfield, plus one practical tip from a guy who sells houses and builds things. No hype, no made-up stats. If I can't source a number, you won't see it.

This week's numbers

Mortgage rates (Freddie Mac PMMS®, U.S. weekly averages as of Thursday, Oct. 15, 2026)

  • 30-year fixed: 7.40%, unchanged from last week. A year ago it was 6.27%.
  • 15-year fixed: 6.71%, down from 6.73%. A year ago it was 5.52%.

That's the highest 30-year PMMS reading since November 16, 2023 (when it was 7.44%), per Freddie Mac's historical data — and now two weeks in a row at 7.40%.

Source: Freddie Mac Primary Mortgage Market Survey · PMMS history CSV

A quick reality check: on a $600,000 30-year loan, principal and interest runs about $3,702 a month at 6.27% and about $4,154 at 7.40%. That's roughly $452 more a month than a year ago, before taxes and insurance. (That's my own arithmetic at the Freddie Mac average rates. Your actual rate depends on your lender and your loan.)

Marblehead, single-family, September 2026 (Massachusetts Association of REALTORS®)

  • Median sale price: $1,127,500, up 15.6% from $975,000 in September 2025
  • Closed sales: 14 (20 a year ago). Small sample, so one month can look extreme.
  • Homes for sale: 28 (down 15.2% from a year ago)
  • Months of supply: 2.0
  • Cumulative days on market: 53 (36 a year ago)
  • Sellers received 93.0% of original list price (99.3% a year ago)

Source: MAR Local Market Update, Marblehead, September 2026 (MLS PIN data, provided by MAR)

Lynnfield, single-family, September 2026 (MAR): this week's rotating town spotlight

  • Median sale price: $1,307,000, up 18.3% from $1,105,000
  • Closed sales: 9 (13 a year ago). Tiny sample.
  • Homes for sale: 21
  • Months of supply: 2.3
  • Cumulative days on market: 32 (24 a year ago)
  • Sellers received 102.7% of original list price (101.3% a year ago)

Source: MAR Local Market Update, Lynnfield, September 2026

So what does it mean? Both towns are still tight at about two months of supply. Marblehead homes are taking longer to sell than a year ago, and sellers there are giving up more off their original asking price. Lynnfield's nine closings are too few to hang a trend on, but sellers there were still getting over list. With rates stuck at 7.40%, buyers have a little more room to negotiate than they did last fall — especially on homes that have been sitting.

The broker-who-builds tip: read the roof

Before you buy — or list — take a hard look at the roof. Check the shingle age and granule loss, peek at the flashing around chimneys and valleys, and look for ice-dam stains on the fascia in winter. A worn roof isn't a deal-killer, but it should be priced in.

This tip is general information, not a substitute for a home inspection, and it doesn't replace advice from your listing agent or a licensed home inspector. If you're planning repairs before a sale, I hold MA Construction Supervisor License CS-047636 and can talk through what's worth fixing.

Buying, selling, or fixing up?

Or call or text me at 781-727-6516. I'm available seven days a week.


John Nestor, Nanepashemet Real Estate Services, MA Broker Lic. #136995-RE-B · 328 West Shore Drive, Marblehead, MA 01945 · 781-727-6516 · nanepashemet.com. Renovations: John Nestor, MA Construction Supervisor License CS-047636. Equal Housing Opportunity.

MOAM Out.

Friday, October 09, 2026

Columbus Had Nerve. Nanepashemet Was Already Here. On Monday, Why Not Honor Both?

This is catching the MOAM's attention today….. Monday is the second Monday in October, and depending on which side of a town line you're standing on, it's either Columbus Day or Indigenous Peoples Day. Every year we have the same argument about it. The MOAM has a simple answer this year: why not both?

What the law actually says

In Massachusetts, the legal name of the holiday is still Columbus Day. Chapter 6, Section 12V of the General Laws tells the governor to proclaim the second Monday in October as Columbus Day, "to the end that the memory of the courage, perseverance and spiritual fervor of Christopher Columbus, discoverer of America, may be perpetuated" (Mass. General Laws). The federal government calls it Columbus Day too (WBUR).

Cities and towns have gone their own way. Boston, Cambridge and Somerville call it Indigenous Peoples Day. Worcester uses both names (WBUR).

Closer to home, Marblehead made the switch at the May 2019 Annual Town Meeting. Article 19 passed, and the vote says the town "shall, from October 2019 forward, celebrate Indigenous Peoples Day as the official holiday on the second Monday of October" and stop recognizing Columbus Day as a publicly sanctioned holiday in town (Marblehead 2019 Annual Town Report). Salem took a different route. In September 2020 the City Council passed a resolution, 6 to 5, declaring the day Indigenous Peoples Day in the city. The councilors who voted no said they supported an Indigenous Peoples Day but wanted to look at giving it its own date, so the two didn't fall on the same day (Salem Patch).

Beacon Hill, again

Every session somebody files a bill to change the state name. This time it was Sen. Jo Comerford's S.2113, with a House version, H.3292, from Rep. Christine Barber of Somerville. Both would strike out the Columbus Day section and replace it with Indigenous Peoples Day (S.2113 text). The House bill was reported favorably out of committee in September 2025 and has been sitting on the House calendar for a second reading since October 2025 (H.3292). The Senate bill was sent to a study order on August 13 (S.2113, S.3257), which on Beacon Hill is usually where a bill goes to wait out the session. In each of the last two sessions, similar bills also came out of committee and never made it over the finish line (WPRI).

So for now, for a third session running, the state's answer is: no answer. Which, honestly, leaves room for the rest of us to work it out.

Give the sailor his due

The MOAM lives in a town that has made its living on the water for nearly 400 years. Ask any Marblehead fisherman what it takes to point a small wooden ship west into an ocean nobody on board had ever crossed, with no guarantee of a landfall. Courage and perseverance are the words the statute uses, and on that part the statute is right. That kind of nerve is worth remembering, and plenty of Italian-American families on the North Shore hold this day dear for good reasons.

And tell the story of who was here

WBUR opened its holiday story with a line from a 1991 children's song by Nancy Schimmel: "In 1492, Columbus sailed the ocean blue. It was a courageous thing to do, but someone was already here" (WBUR). That's the whole case for "both" in two sentences.

Around here, the someone has a name. Nanepashemet, whose name is usually translated as "New Moon," was the sachem who led the Native people across a big stretch of what is now coastal northeastern Massachusetts, including Naumkeag, the land that became Salem, and the Marblehead peninsula, where his people fished, dug shellfish and grew corn (Wikipedia). He was killed in 1619 by raiders from the north at his fort near the Mystic River in what is now Medford. Two years later, a Plymouth party that included Edward Winslow came upon that fort and wrote that he lay buried inside it (Mourt's Relation, 1622).

His widow, the woman sachem of the Mystic, led the people after him, along with their sons, known to the English as Sagamore John, Sagamore James and Sagamore George (Wikipedia). And here's the part every Header should know. In 1684 Marblehead paid 16 pounds to the family's surviving heirs for the land the town sits on. Sagamore George, Wenepoykin, had agreed to the sale but died before he could sign, so his widow and other relatives signed it with their marks. That deed still hangs in Abbot Hall (Marblehead Historical Commission).

The MOAM has a personal stake in this one. He wrote the first Wikipedia entry on Nanepashemet, because a man who led this coast before the Pilgrims landed deserved at least a page. And his novel, The Wing, tells the story of Nanepashemet's family as the English arrived. If you want to spend part of the long weekend with them, the paperback is here on Amazon.

The MOAM's take

This doesn't have to be a tug-of-war. Nobody has to tear down one man to tell another man's story. Honor the nerve it took to cross the Atlantic in 1492, the way the state law does. Then take a walk to Abbot Hall, look at that 1684 deed, and remember the family who was standing on the shore when the ships came in. Marblehead and Salem each landed in a different spot on this, and Beacon Hill hasn't landed at all. The MOAM's vote: one Monday, two stories, both worth telling.

A few ideas for the long weekend:

  1. Stop by Abbot Hall and see the 1684 town deed in the Select Board room.
  2. Drive over to the Middlesex Fells. Nanepashemet Hill is named for him (Wikipedia).
  3. Ask your kids or grandkids what they learned about Columbus, and who was here first. Then tell them about the New Moon sachem who ruled the shore they swim off.

MOAM Out.

Sources: Mass. General Laws c. 6 §12V · WBUR, Oct. 6, 2026 · WPRI, Oct. 10, 2025 · S.2113 · S.3257 · H.3292 · Town of Marblehead 2019 Annual Town Report (Article 19) · Marblehead Independent, Oct. 13, 2025 · Salem Patch, Sept. 25, 2020 · Mourt's Relation (1622) · Marblehead Historical Commission: Town Deed · Wikipedia: Nanepashemet