Woodworking Tip of the Day: Glue Choice and Open Time: Titebond, Epoxy, Polyurethane or Resorcinol?

Not for nuthin'…. But….. half the glue-ups that go wrong in this shop went wrong before the bottle was even open. Wrong glue for the job, or the right glue and a clock nobody was watching. I'm building a Chamberlain Marblehead gunning dory out here, and I've been a licensed contractor a long time, and I keep four kinds of glue within reach for a reason. Each one has a job, a minimum temperature and a clock that starts the second it hits the wood. So today: which glue goes where, what "open time" really means, and how to stage a glue-up so you finish before the glue does.

Why it matters: The German wood-adhesive makers' technical committee (TKH) says industry experts blame more than half of all glue bond failures on running past the open time. And those failures often don't show up on the bench. They show up later, when the piece is in use and carrying a load. Pick the wrong glue for the exposure and you get the same result, just slower: a joint that lets go after a wet winter.

Which glue for which job

• Indoor furniture and shop work: Titebond Original. Plain yellow glue. Franklin (Titebond's maker) says it's not for exterior use or anywhere moisture is likely, and not for structural or load-bearing work. Apply it above 50°F. Open assembly time is 4 to 6 minutes, total assembly 10 to 15 minutes, at 70°F and 50% humidity.
• Outdoor projects: Titebond II or III. Titebond II passes the ANSI Type II water-resistance test; Titebond III passes the tougher ANSI/HPVA Type I test, which boils the glued samples and shears them wet. Type II soaks and bakes them for three cycles. III also gives you more time, 8 to 10 minutes open and 20 to 25 total, against II's 3 to 5 and 10 to 15. Minimums: II above 55°F, III above 47°F (the fine print on III's sheet says 45°F). Here's the catch: Titebond says neither one is for continuous submersion, below the waterline, or structural, load-bearing work. Outdoor bench, yes. Garboard seam, no.
• Polyurethane: Original Gorilla Glue. It cures with moisture, so you lightly dampen one surface and put glue on the other. Gorilla rates it waterproof and ANSI/HPVA Type I, and it works above 40°F. It foams and expands as it cures, so clamp it tight: 1 to 2 hours in the clamps and 24 hours to cure. Practical Sailor's warning is worth hearing: if the joint isn't tight, the gap fills with weak foam, and that foam doesn't like freeze-thaw when it's wet. Titebond (who has a horse in the race, sure) points out that III doesn't foam and needs less clamp time. Gorilla doesn't claim structural or below-waterline use, so on the boat I keep it to non-structural, tight-fitting work above the waterline.
• Epoxy: the boat glue. WEST SYSTEM 105 resin with 205 Fast or 206 Slow hardener is rated for general bonding and barrier coating, it fills gaps when you thicken it, and it's what the dory's laps, stem and transom get. Two numbers fool people. "Pot life" is 100 grams sitting in a cup at 72°F: 9 to 12 minutes with 205, 20 to 25 with 206. Spread thin, the working time is 60 to 70 minutes (205) or 90 to 110 (206). WEST says all assembly and clamping has to happen inside that working time. It cures to a solid in 6 to 8 hours (205) or 10 to 15 (206), and to working strength in 1 to 4 days. Minimums: 40°F for 205, 60°F for 206.
• Resorcinol: the old-school waterproof glue. Before epoxy, this was the glue for laminated keels and stems, and it's still around. Weldwood's resorcinol is discontinued; the same adhesive is sold as Cascophen G-1131 (Hexion). Its maker says the cured glue line is completely resistant to fresh or salt water. But it's fussy: room, wood and glue at 70°F or warmer, tight-fitting joints (it doesn't fill gaps) and a purple glue line. At 70°F you get up to 10 minutes of open assembly or 60 minutes closed (parts together, clamps not yet on), not both. Clamp 8 hours for low-density woods, 10 for dense, double that for curved stock, and give it about 6 days to fully cure.
• Don't mix up the powders. DAP Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue comes in a can that looks a lot like resorcinol, but it's urea-formaldehyde, rated water-resistant, not waterproof. It also wants 70°F, and at 70°F it gives you 15 minutes open or 25 closed, 14 hours in the clamps and 7 days to full strength. Fine for indoor work. Not a boat glue.
• Optional: liquid hide glue. Titebond's Genuine Hide Glue is for indoor repair and antique work you might want to take apart someday. Above 50°F, 10 minutes open, 20 to 30 total. Not for exterior use or moisture. (Hot hide glue and rub joints were the 10/22 tip.)

Open time vs. assembly time vs. cure

• Open time is how long glue can sit spread on the wood before the parts go together. Titebond's open time is the short number.
• Total (or closed) assembly time is the whole window from spreading the glue to having the clamps tight. Resorcinol and plastic resin split it into "open" and "closed" assembly. Use some of one and you lose some of the other.
• Clamp time is how long it stays under pressure. Titebond says 30 to 60 minutes for an unstressed joint, 24 hours for a stressed one, and don't stress any new joint for at least 24 hours. Gorilla: 1 to 2 hours. Epoxy stays clamped until it has cured.
• Full cure is when it reaches full strength and water resistance: about 24 hours for Titebond and Gorilla, 1 to 4 days to working strength for WEST epoxy, about 6 days for resorcinol, 7 for plastic resin.

What the thermometer does to all of it: Every one of those minimums is for the glue, the air and the wood. Titebond spells it out on its sheets: Original's "chalk temperature" is the lowest temperature of the glue, air and materials for a good bond. Cold stretches cure times; System Three's rule of thumb for its epoxies is that gel time doubles for every 18°F drop. Heat and dry air go the other way. TKH lists warm wood, glue and room, dry air, drafts, sun, thin glue coats and dry, soft, thirsty wood as things that shorten open time. All the Titebond numbers above are measured at 70°F and 50% humidity, so a hot, dry August shop gives you less time than the label says. A cold October shop gives you more open time but may put you under the minimum.

Materials

• The right glue for the exposure (see the chart in the plan)
• Thickening filler for epoxy (WEST 406 colloidal silica for bonding)
• Wax paper or packing tape to keep cauls and clamp pads from getting glued on
• A spray bottle of water if you're using polyurethane
• Painter's tape and a marker for writing down the clamp-up time

Tools

• Enough clamps for the whole job, opened to size before you start, plus cauls
• Glue roller, brush or notched spreader, and a mixing stick for epoxy
• A kitchen timer or your phone
• Shop thermometer and an infrared thermometer for the wood itself
• A tape measure or squaring stick for checking diagonals
• Damp rag, scraper and gloves (gloves are a must for poly and epoxy)

Steps: pick it, stage it, beat the clock

1. Pick the glue for the worst day the joint will see. Indoors, Original. Outdoors, II or III. On a boat, anything structural or below the waterline gets epoxy, or resorcinol if your joints are tight and your shop is warm. Use the chart in the plan.
2. Check the temperature of the wood. Air temperature lies in a cold shop. Shoot the boards with an infrared thermometer. Below the glue's minimum? Bring the parts and the glue into the warm house overnight, warm the shop, or pick a glue with a lower minimum (III at 47°F, Gorilla or WEST 205 at 40°F).
3. Dry-fit the whole thing, with clamps. If it doesn't go together dry, it won't go together better with glue on it. Number the parts, mark the clamp spots, and figure out the order.
4. Time the dry run. Run a timer from "first part picked up" to "last clamp tight." Compare that to the glue's total assembly time. If your dry run took 18 minutes and Titebond II gives you 10 to 15, you've got your answer before you've wasted a drop: break it into smaller subassemblies, get a helper, or switch to a glue with a longer window, like Titebond III, slow epoxy or resorcinol.
5. Stage the bench. Clamps opened up and lined up in order, cauls waxed or taped, glue, roller and rag in reach, timer set. Fine Woodworking's tip: open each clamp all the way so you have its full range when you need it.
6. Spread, assemble and clamp, in that order, quick. For yellow glue, spread an even coat and clamp only hard enough to close the joint with a small, even squeeze-out. Don't crank it till it starves. For epoxy, WEST's two-step: wet out both surfaces with plain epoxy, then put thickened epoxy on one, and clamp with just enough pressure to squeeze out a little. Get it clamped before it starts to gel. For Gorilla, dampen one side, glue the other, and clamp tight before it foams.
7. Square it, clean it, write the time down. Check the diagonals while the glue is still wet. Put tape on the piece with the clamp-up time, then leave it for the full clamp time, and don't load the joint for 24 hours (longer for resorcinol, plastic resin and epoxy, per the chart).

On the dory: The laps, stem and transom get WEST epoxy, because it fills gaps, bonds wood that isn't machined dead-flat, and works in a cold New England fall with 205 Fast down to 40°F. Resorcinol would do the job below the waterline, but it needs a 70°F shop and machine-tight joints, and that's a tall order in a Marblehead garage in November. The strongback, the molds and the boat stands? Titebond and screws. The outdoor shop bench by the water? Titebond III.

MOAM's shop note: The most common mistake I see is somebody who dry-fits once, likes it, and then never times it. They spread glue on twelve biscuit slots and a dozen edges with Titebond II, and by the last joint the first one's skinned over. The fix is the timed dry run, and a rule: if the dry run eats more than the glue's total assembly time, split the job. A big cabinet carcase is really two side assemblies and a final glue-up. A wide tabletop is a few two- or three-board panels, then the panels. You lose an hour of clamp time. You gain joints that hold.

The numbers here come from the makers' data sheets (Titebond, Gorilla, WEST SYSTEM, Hexion's Cascophen bulletin, DAP and System Three), plus Fine Woodworking, Practical Sailor and the German wood-adhesive industry's technical committee. All the times are at about 70°F, so check the label for the glue on your bench.

Sources: Titebond, Original, II Premium, III Ultimate, Genuine Hide Glue and FAQs. Gorilla, Original Gorilla Glue and Product Guide. WEST SYSTEM, 105/205 and 105/206 data sheets and User Manual. Hexion, Cascophen G-1131 product bulletin. DGR Industrial, Weldwood Resorcinol (discontinued). DAP, Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue data sheet. System Three, Working in cool temperatures. Practical Sailor, Choosing the Right Boat Glue. Fine Woodworking, 10 Tips for a Drama-Free Glue-Up. TKH (Industrieverband Klebstoffe), Open Time of Dispersion Adhesives.

MOAM Out.

Tools for this tip

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

• Titebond 5063 Original Wood Glue, 8 oz: indoor furniture and shop work; apply above 50°F, open time 4-6 minutes
• Titebond II Premium Wood Glue, 16 oz (5004): outdoor projects (ANSI Type II); apply above 55°F; not below the waterline
• Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue, 16 oz (1414): outdoor work and long glue-ups: Type I, 8-10 minute open time, down to 47°F; not below the waterline
• Original Gorilla Glue, waterproof polyurethane glue, 8 oz: waterproof polyurethane for tight-fitting outdoor joints: dampen one surface, clamp 1-2 hours
• West System 105 Resin + 206 Slow Hardener bundle with 300 Mini Pumps: epoxy for boat work and gap-filling joints (this kit's 206 Slow hardener wants 60°F or warmer)
• Etekcity Lasergrip 774 infrared thermometer: checking the wood's temperature, not just the air, before you spread glue

Use whatever you already have in the shop; these are just the ones that fit this job.

The American Dream Now Costs $5.32 Million

The American Dream now costs $5.32 million over a lifetime.

That's Investopedia's new tally: a home, two new cars, raising two kids through college, retirement, healthcare, a wedding, pets and a yearly vacation. It went up 4.1% in one year. Paychecks went up 3.1%. Even a college grad comes up about $1.2 million short.

Now look at the cars. $1.21 million, because the math assumes you buy two new ones every five years. Around here we call that crazy. A paid-off car that starts in January is worth more than any new-car smell.

The real problem isn't that folks dream too big. It's that everything costs more every year and wages never catch up. Get spending under control in Washington and on Beacon Hill, and the dollar might stretch again.

What's the oldest car in your driveway? Post it in the comments.

#MOAM #CostOfLiving #AmericanDream #Massachusetts

Sources: Investopedia | Fortune

MOAM Out.

New Real Estate Listings on the North Shore Today – Sunday, October 25

New Listings Today – North Shore 29 Towns

Not for nuthin'…. But….. it was a sleepy Saturday on the MLS. Just 3 new listings hit the North Shore market in the last 24 hours.

Top towns: Beverly, Middleton and Salem, 1 apiece.

By property type: Residential 2 · Residential Lease (rentals) 1.

The MOAM's take: a slow Saturday is normal. Fewer new ones means less competition if one of these fits, so take a look before Monday's batch lands.

Contact Nanepashemet to view these.
Nanepashemet Real Estate Services
Call or text 781-727-6516
jnestor@nanepashemet.com

MOAM Out.

Listing data courtesy of MLS Property Information Network (MLS PIN); listings shown are held by various brokerages. Nanepashemet Real Estate Services, MA Broker Lic. 136995-RE-B.

Boston Sports Morning Report — Sunday, Oct. 25

 

Not for nuthin'…. But….. Sunday morning and the Bruins just keep finding ways. Down a goal halfway through the third period Saturday night, they ripped off three in a row and walked out of the Garden with a 6-4 win. Nobody in Boston plays today, so put the coffee on, rake a few leaves and enjoy it.

Short version: the B's beat San Jose 6-4 and stay first in the Atlantic, the Celtics host Chicago Monday at 7:30, the Pats are off until Nov. 1 in Miami, and the Sox are home for the winter.

Boston Bruins

• Yesterday: W 6-4 vs San Jose Sharks (home)
• Today: No game
• Next: Tue., Oct. 27, 8:00 PM ET, @ Carolina Hurricanes (ESPN)
• Standings: 9-2-1, 19 points, 1st in the Atlantic (3 points up on Ottawa and Toronto), No. 2 in the East, one point behind Carolina with a game in hand

Tied 2-2 after two, then the Sharks went up 3-2 on a power play early in the third. Then David Pastrnak came out of the penalty box and tied it, and that goal puts him even with Patrice Bergeron for third on the Bruins' all-time list with 427. James Hagens scored 40 seconds later, Fraser Minten added a power-play goal, and Will Borgen put one in the empty net. Casey Mittelstadt and Marat Khusnutdinov scored earlier, and Jeremy Swayman got the win. That's eight straight games with a point (7-0-1). Tuesday in Raleigh is a big one against the only team ahead of us in the East.

Boston Celtics

• Yesterday: No game (last game: W 107-103 vs New York Knicks on Friday)
• Today: No game
• Next: Mon., Oct. 26, 7:30 PM ET, vs Chicago Bulls (home)
• Standings: 1-1, 3rd in the Atlantic, 1.5 games behind Philadelphia (3-0), No. 7 in the East

Two days of rest after Tatum's 36 against the Knicks. The Bulls come in Monday, then Brooklyn Tuesday, so that's back-to-back nights at the Garden. Let's bank a couple.

New England Patriots

• Yesterday / Today: No games (last game: L 30-24 @ Chicago on Thursday night)
• Next: Sun., Nov. 1, 4:25 PM ET, @ Miami Dolphins (CBS)
• Standings (going into Sunday's games): 4-3, 2nd in the AFC East, 1.5 games behind Buffalo (5-1), No. 9 in the AFC

A Sunday with no Pats game feels wrong, but they played Thursday. Watch the scoreboard today and root against Buffalo. Miami is 0-5 and waiting next week.

Boston Red Sox

• Yesterday / Today: No games, season over
• Next: Spring training opens Fri., Feb. 19, 2027, then the Grapefruit League opener Sat., Feb. 20, @ Tampa Bay (times TBA)
• 2027 Opening Day: Thu., March 25, 2027, @ Seattle Mariners (time TBA). Fenway home opener is Thu., April 1, vs Cincinnati
• Final standings: 87-75, 3rd in the AL East, swept by the Yankees in the AL Wild Card round

Hot stove season. Still waiting on a good rumor.

That's the Sunday board. Celts Monday at 7:30, B's Tuesday at 8. Enjoy the day, everybody.

MOAM Out.

New England This Morning — October 25, 2026

 

Not for nuthin'…. But….. Sunday showed up dressed for church. A blazing sunrise over a glassy harbor, the Presidentials catching the first light, and a still, mirror-calm river up in Vermont. Sunny across the board today, with a high near 63 in Marblehead and the mountain valleys pushing the mid 60s. Here's how four corners of New England looked around 7:40 this morning.

Marblehead Harbor (BYC Oceanfront) — The sun just popping over the trees and laying a gold streak on water flat as a tabletop, mooring balls dotting the harbor, and a few boats still hanging on for the season. Sunny with a high near 63 and a light southwest breeze of 2 to 8 mph. A Sunday morning made for coffee on the dock.

Mount Washington North View — Clear sky from one end to the other, the northern Presidentials glowing orange on their east faces, the Auto Road snaking across the summit cone, and little patches of snow tucked in the rocks. Sunny with a high in the 40s and a west wind of 15 to 25 mph. Downright mild for the Rockpile in late October.

Mad River Valley, VT (Great Eddy Covered Bridge) — The old bridge in Waitsfield standing guard over a dead-calm Mad River, the bare trees and the last orange maple reflected in the water, and a curl of wood smoke rising from a chimney behind the village. Sunny with a high near 66 and hardly any wind.

Bartlett Experimental Forest, NH — From the top of the NEON tower, the hardwoods are just about all bare now, gray and russet with a few gold holdouts, while the pines and hemlocks keep the green going against a soft lavender ridgeline. Sunny with a high near 63 and calm.

Webcam views courtesy of the Boston Yacht Club, the Mount Washington Observatory, Mad River Valley Television, and NEON/PhenoCam.

MOAM Out.

Woodworking Tip of the Day: Amine Blush: How to Spot It, Wash It Off and Keep It From Ruining Your Next Coat

Raw, damp October in the boat shop, and you know what that brings….. amine blush. This time of year on the Chamberlain Marblehead gunning dory, you roll a coat of epoxy on in the afternoon, come back in the morning, run your hand over it, and it feels like somebody wiped it down with a candle. That greasy film is amine blush. It won't hurt the epoxy, but it will ruin the next thing you put on top of it if you don't deal with it. The good news is it comes off with a bucket of water and a pad. The bad news is that most folks reach for the sandpaper or the acetone first, and neither one does the job.

What it is: The hardener side of most marine epoxies is full of amines. While the epoxy is still curing, the amines sitting at the surface can react with carbon dioxide and moisture in the air instead of with the resin. Gougeon Brothers (the WEST SYSTEM folks) say that forms a wax-like film, and MAS describes the product as a carbamate. It's a thin layer, and WEST says it doesn't affect the strength of the cured epoxy. It's water-soluble, which is the whole key to getting it off.

Why it matters: Blush gets in the way of whatever comes next. WEST says it reduces the secondary adhesion of the next coat of epoxy, can keep polyurethane finishes from drying, can make the epoxy look slightly cloudy, and can interfere with the cure of some paints and varnishes and all polyester gelcoats. It also clogs sandpaper. Interlux (Epiglass, Brightside) warns that blush left under its one-part primer can work up through the primer, so the topcoat doesn't cure right over those spots, and both primer and paint can let go. On a boat, that's a peeling job next spring.

What makes it worse: Everything a New England shop does in the fall.

• Cold. Cold slows the cure, and the longer the epoxy stays uncured, the more time the amines have to react with the air. WEST's advice is to work above 65°F if you can.
• Damp air, and temperature dropping overnight. WEST says a cool, damp day makes more blush than a hot, dry one, and blush shows up most when a coat cures while the temperature is falling. A hull that's colder than the shop air can sweat condensation right onto your wet coat.
• Thin films. A thin coat doesn't make much heat, so it cures slower and blushes more than a thick one.
• Open-flame heaters. Kerosene torpedo heaters add carbon dioxide to the air, and WEST says unvented kerosene or propane heaters can also slow the cure and leave unburned hydrocarbons on the surface. That's the classic cold-shop mistake.
• Too much hardener. Off-ratio mixes make more blush and a weaker epoxy. Pump it right and stir it well.
• Fast hardeners, with a cold-shop catch. A 2025 Epoxyworks article says slower hardeners like WEST's 209 and 207 make less blush than faster ones, and TotalBoat and Chesapeake Light Craft (for MAS) say the same about their own fast and slow hardeners. The catch: a slow hardener that barely cures in a 50-degree shop gives the amines all night to react, which is why an older Epoxyworks piece recommended 205 Fast below 72°F. WEST lists a 60°F minimum for 206 Slow and 40°F for 205 Fast. So pick a hardener that will actually cure at your shop temperature, and plan on washing either way.

Materials

• A bucket of clean, warm water (WEST says water clean enough to drink) and a second bucket or a hose for rinsing
• Maroon Scotch-Brite general-purpose pads (WEST names the 7447 by number)
• Plain white paper towels, a big roll
• 80-grit aluminum oxide paper for any glossy spots left after washing (no stearate-coated paper)
• Nitrile gloves
• Release fabric (peel ply) if you're laminating and want to skip the wash next time

Tools

• A thermometer and hygrometer for the shop, and an infrared thermometer for the hull's surface temperature
• Sanding block or random-orbit sander
• Shop vac

Steps: spot it, wash it, then sand

1. Assume it's there. WEST's manual says it isn't unreasonable to assume blush has formed on any cured epoxy surface. TotalBoat says it can be there even when the surface looks clean and glossy, and it can form unevenly, so one spot is fine and the next few inches aren't. Plan on washing every cured coat.
2. Check it anyway. Run a clean, gloved fingertip over it. Blush feels greasy, waxy or slick. Look for a dull or cloudy haze instead of gloss, and in bad cases, white salt-like spots. Then do the water test: wet it and watch. Water that beads up or channels means it needs cleaning; water that sheets out evenly means the surface is clean. WEST calls that the water break test.
3. Wait for a hard cure. Blush comes off after the epoxy has cured hard, so don't scrub a coat that's still soft. In a cold shop that can take a lot longer than the can says.
4. Scrub with warm water and a Scotch-Brite. Wet the surface and scrub every inch, working in sections. TotalBoat says warm water dissolves it faster than cold. WEST says plain water is all you need and that soap, ammonia or bleach can leave a residue of their own. TotalBoat, Interlux and System Three add a little mild soap; if you do, rinse well, because soap left behind causes the same trouble as the blush.
5. Change the water often. The water picks up the dissolved blush. Scrubbing with a dirty bucket just spreads it back around.
6. Dry it with paper towels, right away. Wipe it off while it's wet so the dissolved blush comes off on the towel and doesn't dry back onto the surface. Use plain white paper towels, the way WEST and Epoxyworks call for. Then let it dry all the way. Don't put the next coat over a damp surface.
7. THEN sand. Sand any spots that are still glossy with 80 grit so the next coat has scratches to key into, and vacuum. For paint or varnish, finish with whatever grit the coating maker calls for. Wet-sanding with wet/dry paper also takes blush off. What doesn't work is dry-sanding first: it clogs the paper and, per Epoxyworks and Interlux, works the blush deeper into the surface.
8. Skip the acetone. Blush is water-soluble, and WEST says many organic solvents don't remove it well. Interlux says it straight: acetone won't remove it. Save the solvent for real grease or oil, and wipe it on and off with fresh paper towels.

When you can skip the wash

• Recoat while it's still tacky. In the gel, or "green," stage, the next coat of epoxy chemically links with the last one, so you can recoat without washing or sanding. The coat should be tacky but firm enough to hold the next one. WEST says you can still dent it with a thumbnail at that stage. That window runs anywhere from about 15 minutes to several hours, depending on the hardener and the temperature, so check your own product's data. WEST's tip for coating: put all your coats on the same day. Their caution matters up here too: once a coat is past the soft-gel stage in a cool, damp climate, don't count on it. When it's hard to the touch, wash and sand, period. And when in doubt, WEST says, be conservative: let it cure, then wash and sand.
• Peel ply. Lay release fabric over the wet epoxy when you're laminating or glassing. When it's cured, you peel the fabric and the blush comes with it, leaving a textured surface WEST says doesn't need sanding before the next layer.
• A blush-free hardener. WEST's 207 Special Clear won't blush or turn cloudy in humid conditions, but its minimum cure temperature is 60°F, so it still needs a warm shop. System Three sells SilverTip, Clear Coat and Cold Cure as blush-free; MAS and TotalBoat sell non-blushing systems too. TotalBoat and Interlux still say to wash any cured epoxy before you recoat, even if the label says no blush. Cheap insurance.
• Not for paint or varnish. The tacky shortcut only works epoxy-to-epoxy. Before paint, primer, varnish or gelcoat, WEST says let the epoxy cure fully, then wash, sand and follow the coating maker's directions.

MOAM's shop note: The cold-shop trick is to plan around the weather instead of fighting it. Mix and coat in the warmest part of the day, as System Three recommends, and keep the heat steady overnight so the temperature isn't falling while the coat cures. Warm the shop with a vented or electric heater, not a torpedo heater blowing combustion right at the hull. On a job like coating the inside of the dory's planking, put the second coat on while the first is still tacky and the third the same afternoon, so there's one wash at the end instead of three. And there's a bonus from Gougeon: if the first coat raised the grain, you can flatten those fuzzies back into the tacky epoxy with a plastic squeegee and recoat right away, no sanding.

Numbers and recommendations here come from WEST SYSTEM and Gougeon's Epoxyworks, System Three, MAS and Chesapeake Light Craft, TotalBoat and Interlux. Recoat windows and cure temperatures vary by product, so check the data sheet for the epoxy on your bench.

Sources: WEST SYSTEM, Surface Preparation, User Manual, 207 Special Clear Hardener. Epoxyworks, What is Amine Blush?, Jeff Wright, Let's Talk About Amine Blush (2024) and Tom Pawlak and Tim Atkinson, Minimizing Amine Blush (1994). System Three, Why did my epoxy blush? and Working in cool temperatures. MAS Epoxies, What Is Non-Blushing Epoxy?. Chesapeake Light Craft, Epoxy Tips and FAQ. TotalBoat, How to Remove Amine Blush. Interlux, What is amine blush?.

MOAM Out.

Tools for this tip

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

• 3M Scotch-Brite 7447 general purpose hand pads, maroon, 6 x 9 in. (20-pack): the maroon pad WEST names by number for scrubbing blush off with clean water
• WEST SYSTEM 207-SA Special Clear Hardener, 0.66 pint (use with 105 resin, 3:1): WEST's blush-free hardener for clear coats over brightwork (minimum cure temperature 60°F)
• ThermoPro TP50 digital hygrometer / indoor thermometer: shop temperature and humidity at a glance before you mix
• Etekcity Lasergrip 774 infrared thermometer: checking the hull's surface temperature, so a cold hull doesn't sweat on a fresh coat
• The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction (book): the Gougeon brothers' book on coating and building with epoxy

Use whatever you already have in the shop; these are just the ones that fit this job.

New Real Estate Listings on the North Shore Today – Saturday, October 24

New Listings Today – North Shore 29 Towns

Saturday coffee in hand, the MOAM took a spin through the MLS….. 17 new listings hit the North Shore market in the last 24 hours, across 11 towns.

Top towns: Newburyport leads with 3; Marblehead, Lynn, Rockport and Rowley had 2 each; and Nahant, Salem, Salisbury, Danvers, Peabody and Amesbury had 1 apiece.

By property type: Residential 6 · Residential Lease (rentals) 6 · Residential Income (multi-families) 2 · Business Opportunity 1 · Land 1 · Commercial Lease 1.

The MOAM's take: a quieter Friday-to-Saturday stretch, and rentals matched for-sale homes one for one, so if you're hunting for a lease on the North Shore, this weekend's worth a look. Two new ones right here in Marblehead, too.

Contact Nanepashemet to view these.
Nanepashemet Real Estate Services
Call or text 781-727-6516
jnestor@nanepashemet.com

MOAM Out.

Listing data courtesy of MLS Property Information Network (MLS PIN); listings shown are held by various brokerages. Nanepashemet Real Estate Services, MA Broker Lic. 136995-RE-B.

Boston Sports Morning Report — Saturday, Oct. 24

Not for nuthin'…. But….. Saturday morning and the Celtics finally have a W next to their name. Tatum took over the Garden in the home opener, the B's are back on the ice tonight, and the Pats get a long weekend to lick their wounds. Grab the coffee. Here we go.

Short version: Celts beat the Knicks 107-103 Friday night, the Bruins host San Jose tonight at 7 sitting first in the Atlantic, the Pats are off until Nov. 1 in Miami, and the Sox are still home for the winter.

Boston Celtics

• Yesterday: W 107-103 vs New York Knicks (home opener)
• Today: No game
• Next: Mon., Oct. 26, 7:30 PM ET, vs Chicago Bulls (home)
• Standings: 1-1, 3rd in the Atlantic, 1 game behind Philadelphia and Toronto (both 2-0)

Jayson Tatum, 36 points, 9 boards, 7 assists, with 25 of those points after halftime and seven of the Celtics' last eight. That's the guy. Neemias Queta chipped in 15 and three blocks, Paul George had 15, and the Knicks got nothing from Mikal Bridges (0 for 8). Detroit's in the rear-view. Bulls come to town Monday.

Boston Bruins

• Yesterday: No game (last game: W 6-0 vs Nashville on Thursday)
• Today: 7:00 PM ET, vs San Jose Sharks (home, NESN)
• Next: Tue., Oct. 27, 8:00 PM ET, @ Carolina Hurricanes (ESPN)
• Standings: 8-2-1, 17 points, 1st in the Atlantic (3 points up on Tampa Bay, Ottawa and Toronto), No. 2 in the East, one point behind Carolina

Coming off that DiPietro shutout, the B's have a seven-game point streak going and the Sharks (6-4-1) in the building tonight. Keep it rolling, then a big one Tuesday in Raleigh against the only team ahead of us in the East.

New England Patriots

• Yesterday / Today: No games (last game: L 30-24 @ Chicago on Thursday night)
• Next: Sun., Nov. 1, 4:25 PM ET, @ Miami Dolphins (CBS)
• Standings: 4-3, 2nd in the AFC East, 1.5 games behind Buffalo (5-1), No. 9 in the AFC right now

No Pats football this Sunday after the Thursday night game, so it's a free weekend to rake the leaves. Miami comes in 0-5. Get healthy, get right, go take care of business.

Boston Red Sox

• Yesterday / Today: No games, season over
• Next: Spring training opens Fri., Feb. 19, 2027, vs Northeastern at JetBlue Park, then the Grapefruit League opener Sat., Feb. 20, @ Tampa Bay (times TBA)
• 2027 Opening Day: Thu., March 25, 2027, @ Seattle Mariners (time TBA); Fenway home opener Thu., April 1, vs Cincinnati
• Final standings: 87-75, 3rd in the AL East, swept by the Yankees in the AL Wild Card round

Hot stove season. Five months till Opening Day in Seattle. Not that anybody's counting.

That's the Saturday board. B's tonight at 7, Celts Monday at 7:30. Enjoy the weekend, everybody.

MOAM Out.

New England This Morning — October 24, 2026

Not for nuthin'…. But….. Saturday rolled out the good stuff. A sunrise straight out of a postcard over the harbor, crystal-clear air on the summits, and a frosty, quiet start up in the New Hampshire woods. Sunny everywhere today, with a high near 58 in Marblehead and hardly a breath of wind on the coast. Here's how three corners of New England looked around 7:37 this morning.

Marblehead Harbor (BYC Oceanfront) — The sun just clearing the trees and throwing a bright gold streak across the water, jet trails crisscrossing a blue sky, and a scattering of boats still riding out the season on their moorings. Sunny with a high near 58 and a light west wind of 1 to 5 mph. A fine morning for a walk down to the waterfront.

Mount Washington North View — Not a cloud in sight. The northern Presidentials are glowing amber in the early light, with ridge after ridge fading into the haze and a thin line of frost on the summit rocks. Sunny with a high near 37, but a northwest wind of 20 to 35 mph with gusts to 50 keeps it a summit day for the hardy only.

Bartlett Experimental Forest, NH — From the top of the NEON tower, the hardwoods have gone mostly bare and russet, with a few gold birches and the dark green pines and hemlocks holding the line, and the ridgeline turning purple in the morning light. Sunny with a high near 57 and nearly calm.

The Mad River Valley covered bridge cam in Waitsfield took the morning off, so it sits this one out. Back tomorrow, we hope.

Webcam views courtesy of the Boston Yacht Club, the Mount Washington Observatory, and NEON/PhenoCam.

MOAM Out.

Woodworking Tip of the Day: Dust Collection You'll Actually Use: Hoods, Shrouds and PPE

This is catching the MOAM's attention today….. the dust. Not the chips on the floor, the stuff you can't see. Right now on the Chamberlain Marblehead gunning dory I'm sanding cured epoxy, fairing compound, a little teak and some cedar, and every one of those makes a fine powder that hangs in the air long after the sander stops. I've been building boats and running jobs as a licensed contractor long enough to know the dust setup that works is the one you'll actually turn on every time. So here's a simple one: catch it at the tool, clean the air as a backup, wear the right mask the right way, and clean up without stirring it all back up.

Why it matters: NIOSH treats wood dust as a potential occupational carcinogen and recommends keeping it under 1 mg/m³ over a work shift. OSHA's legal limit is much looser (15 mg/m³ total dust, 5 mg/m³ respirable), and OSHA itself says many of its limits are outdated and points employers to the NIOSH number. Teak is on the ACGIH list as a suspected human carcinogen, and Western red cedar is a known respiratory sensitizer, with a tighter ACGIH limit of 0.5 mg/m³. California's health department lists cedar, oak and mahogany among woods known to cause asthma. Then there's epoxy. WEST SYSTEM says the sanding dust of partially cured epoxy is still reactive, and breathing it raises your risk of becoming sensitized. Once you're sensitized, even a little exposure can set you off. Fairing fillers aren't much of a hazard on their own, WEST says, but any nuisance dust makes existing lung trouble worse.

Materials

• A HEPA-filtered shop vac (built for HEPA, not just a shop vac with a HEPA cartridge stuck in it)
• A cyclone separator and a bucket or drum between the tool and the vac
• Sander with a dust port, hose and adapter to fit it; hook-and-loop discs with holes that line up with the pad
• A small hood or shroud (store-bought or a shop-made box from scrap plywood) for jobs the sander port can't catch
• A half-mask respirator with P100 filters (or a NIOSH-approved N95 for short jobs); organic vapor/P100 combination cartridges if you'll be using solvents
• Safety glasses with side shields marked Z87, and earmuffs or plugs

Tools

• Random-orbit sander, longboard or sanding block
• Ceiling-hung air cleaner (optional, as a backup)
• Spray bottle and a damp rag or mop for the last pass of cleanup

Steps: a dust setup you'll actually use

1. Catch it at the tool, first. Hook the sander's port straight to the vac hose, with the cyclone in between. Fine Woodworking tested Oneida's Dust Deputy cyclone with quarts of the finest sanding dust, and "not even a teaspoon" got into the vacuum. That keeps the vac filter from clogging, so your suction stays strong, and you're not beating a caked filter out in the yard. Line up the holes in the disc with the holes in the pad, or the port isn't pulling anything.
2. Make sure the vac is really HEPA. A HEPA filter catches 99.97% of particles at 0.3 micron, the size that's hardest to catch. EPA's warning is worth hearing: a shop vac with a HEPA cartridge dropped in isn't necessarily sealed, so dust can leak past the filter. Buy one designed to run with a HEPA filter.
3. Put the hood right where the dust comes off. Suction dies off fast. OSHA's ventilation manual says that at one duct diameter in front of a plain opening, capture velocity is about 10% of the velocity in the duct, and the source should be no more than 1-1/2 duct diameters from the hood. OSHA's example: a 6-in. duct, 9 in. max. By the same rule, a 2-1/2-in. vac hose has to be within about 3-3/4 in. of the work. Blowing air carries a long way; suction doesn't. So for scraping, hand-sanding fillets or working inside the hull, clamp the hood right up to the work, and baffle the sides with cardboard or plastic so a fan or an open door doesn't blow the dust past it.
4. Run the air cleaner as a backup, not a substitute. Fine Woodworking's 2010 test of five ceiling-hung air filters in a mock 400 sq. ft. shop found they did clear the finest dust (0.1 to 10 microns) in 20 minutes or less, about 15 minutes for the best. The same test concluded they don't keep the air at levels experts call safe; for that you need collection at the source. Turn it on while you work and leave it running after you quit.
5. Pick the right mask. For dust, you want a particulate filter: N95 means it catches at least 95% of particles, P100 at least 99.97%. N means not oil resistant, R is somewhat resistant, P is oil proof. WEST's minimum for epoxy, wood and filler dust is N95 or better. On a long sanding session I wear a half mask with P100 filters. Organic vapor cartridges are for vapors (solvent wipes, or epoxy in a closed-up space like inside the hull), and a plain OV cartridge does nothing for dust. If you need both, use a combination OV/P100 cartridge.
6. Check the seal every time you put it on. OSHA's user seal check: cover the exhalation valve and breathe out gently; you should feel slight pressure with no leaks at the edges. Then cover the cartridges and breathe in gently; the mask should pull in slightly and stay that way while you hold your breath for 10 seconds. That check doesn't replace a fit test, which is how you find the right model and size. And the hard truth for us old-timers: OSHA doesn't let employers put tight-fitting respirators on anyone with facial hair under the seal. A beard breaks the seal. That rule is written for tight-fitting masks, so if the beard stays, look at a loose-fitting powered (PAPR) hood instead.
7. Change filters on time. NIOSH says replace any particulate filter when it's damaged, dirty or noticeably harder to breathe through. Vapor cartridges are a different story: OSHA requires either an end-of-service-life indicator or a change schedule based on objective data, like the maker's service-life figures. Bag the cartridges between uses.
8. Eyes and ears, quick. OSHA requires eye protection with side protection where there are flying particles; look for Z87 on the frame. NIOSH's recommended noise limit is 85 dBA averaged over 8 hours, and 85 dBA is also OSHA's trigger for a hearing conservation program (90 dBA is OSHA's limit). Planers, routers and a shop vac all at once add up. Earmuffs hang right on the vac.
9. Sand epoxy only when it's fully cured. WEST says epoxy cures to a sandable solid fast, but full cure can take more than two weeks at room temperature (or a post-cure with heat). Wait several days before sanding fresh epoxy, wet sand when you can, and if you can't wait, gear up: mask, glasses and long sleeves. Wash up with soap and warm water after sanding.
10. Clean up with the vac, never the air hose or the broom. The UK's safety regulator (HSE) says it straight: never dry sweep or blow wood dust off with compressed air, because it just makes a dust cloud you breathe. WEST agrees: vacuum or mop, because less dust goes back in the air. Vacuum the boat, the bench, the floor and your clothes, then a damp wipe.

MOAM's shop note: The dust setup that works is the one that's quick to start. Keep the vac, cyclone and hose on one cart next to the boat, with the mask hanging on the handle in a bag and the earmuffs on the hose. Plug the sander into the vac's tool outlet if yours has one, so the vac starts when the sander does. If it takes five minutes to hook up, some Saturday you'll "just do a quick pass" without it, and that's the pass that gets you. And if your shop's like mine in late October, with the doors shut and the stove going, the air cleaner and the mask matter more, not less.

Numbers here come from NIOSH/CDC, OSHA, EPA, WEST SYSTEM, Fine Woodworking, the California Department of Public Health and the UK HSE. The 3-3/4 in. figure is my arithmetic from OSHA's 1-1/2-duct-diameter rule.

Sources: NIOSH/CDC, Filtering Facepiece Respirators, User Seal Check FAQ, Service Time Recommendations for P-Series Filters, Understand Noise Exposure; 42 CFR 84.170 (LII). OSHA, Wood Dust, PELs vs. RELs, 29 CFR 1910.134 and Appendix B-1, 29 CFR 1910.133, Occupational Noise Exposure, Technical Manual, Ventilation. EPA, What is a HEPA filter? and HEPA vacuums. WEST SYSTEM, Preventing Overexposure, Shop Hazards, Epoxy Safety. Fine Woodworking, Dust Deputy Cyclone and Eric Constans, Air Filters (July/Aug. 2010). California Dept. of Public Health, Wood Dust and Work-Related Asthma. UK HSE, Wood dust.

MOAM Out.

Tools for this tip

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

• Oneida Air Systems Dust Deputy DIY anti-static cyclone separator for wet/dry shop vacs: cyclone between the sander and the vac, so fine sanding dust lands in the bucket, not the filter
• 3M 6503QL Rugged Comfort Quick Latch half facepiece reusable respirator, large: half-mask respirator for long sanding sessions on epoxy, fairing compound and teak (seal check every time)
• 3M 2091 P100 particulate filters, 3 pairs: P100 filters for the half mask: at least 99.97% filtration, oil proof
• 3M 60921 organic vapor/P100 cartridge, 1 pair: combination organic vapor/P100 cartridges for solvent wipes and epoxy in a closed-up hull
• 3M PELTOR X4A over-the-head earmuffs, NRR 27 dB: earmuffs to hang on the vac cart for sanders, routers and planers

Use whatever you already have in the shop; these are just the ones that fit this job.

Two Lives, One Deed: Thomas Pitman, Wenepoykin, and Marblehead's 1684 Bargain

Every Marbleheader has walked past the framed 1684 deed in Abbot Hall. I've looked at it a hundred times. Only recently did I learn that one of the men who helped bring it about was my own ancestor, Thomas Pitman. By my family records he is my 9th great-grandfather. On the other side of that parchment stands Wenepoykin, son of Nanepashemet. He is the man at the center of my novel, The Wing. The two of them were born within a few years of each other. Their lives ran side by side for seventy years, and they met on paper only after one of them had died.

Here is their story, told side by side and as close to the records as I can keep it.

Two boys, two worlds (c.1612–1633)

Nobody knows exactly where Thomas Pitman came from. He was born somewhere around 1612 to 1617. His own sworn ages in court drift across those years, which was common at the time. You'll see a 1612 baptism at Wedmore, Somerset, repeated online, but it rests on nothing more than a matching name. One family historian writing in 1913 called his ancestry "unknown," and I'll leave it there. The Pitman name is heavily a Somerset and Dorset name, so a West Country origin is likely. That is a probability, not a fact.

Wenepoykin was born around 1616, on the shores the English would call Lynn and Marblehead. John Higginson, born in 1616 himself, later testified that George (the English name for Wenepoykin) was "young then about my Age." His father, Nanepashemet, was dead by the fall of 1621. In December 1633 smallpox swept the coast. Governor Winthrop wrote that "John Sagamore died of the small pox, and almost all his people," and that "James Sagamore of Sagus died also, and most of his folks." Those were Wenepoykin's older brothers. At about seventeen he became sagamore of what was left.

A fisherman comes to Marblehead (1640s)

We don't know when Thomas crossed the Atlantic or on what ship, and no English record yet tells us where he was born or what he did there. He first appears in February 1646, standing surety for a neighbor in the Salem court, years after the great Puritan migration had ended. Marblehead was a rough fishing station, not a pious village. Governor Winthrop dismissed its fishermen that year as "profane persons, divers of them brought the last year from Newfoundland to fish a season."

Everything about Thomas suggests he came for work, for fish, land and a better living than the struggling West Country could offer, where pirates were taking ships, men were being pressed into the navy, and civil war had broken out. He did not come to build a godly commonwealth. Marblehead had no church of its own until 1684, and nothing shows him joining Salem's. Yet he became a pillar of the place anyway: as constable in 1659 he reported neighbors who had taken up with the Quakers, he helped pay for the meeting-house, and in old age he was probably made a freeman of the colony.

He stayed. In 1648, the year Marblehead became its own town, the commons were divided among 44 families, and the list reads "Tho. Pitman, 2 cows." Most families got one. In 1657 Thomas, "of Marblehead, fisherman," bought a house and barn. In 1658 he was sworn constable. Over the next decades he served as fence surveyor and as selectman, and in 1670 a witness to a street brawl saw "Thomas Pitman & his foare sons." He raised six known children with his wife, Joan or Jane. One of them, John, married Charity Gale in 1681. My own line runs through John.

During those same years, Wenepoykin's land was slipping away. In 1652 he mortgaged Nahant to Nicholas Davison of Charlestown for £20. He pressed the General Court over his late brother's land and got nowhere. The missionary John Eliot judged in 1649 that the Lynn Indians were "all naught" because "their sachem … careth not to pray to God." Wenepoykin married Joane Ahawayet, daughter of the Nahant sachem called Black Will. In time he moved north to Wamesit, in what became Chelmsford.

An inquest, a war, an island (1664–c.1683)

The two worlds touched early. In December 1664 Thomas Pitman sat, signing with his mark, on the jury of inquest into the death of "an Indian named Peter," found frozen on the highway at the edge of Marblehead.

In 1672 an Indian court at Natick heard old Ahaton swear that "George Saggamore w^th no nose was Saggamore of y^e place where marblehead is seated." Wenepoykin agreed that his kinsman James Rumney Marsh could deal for the Marblehead land, provided George received half the pay.

Then came King Philip's War. On 25 August 1675, "Mark Pitman of Marblehead," very likely Thomas's kinsman, was killed in the fight near Hatfield. Wenepoykin, by later accounts, sided against the English. Those accounts are secondary, and the details of his part in the war are undocumented. He was captured in 1675 or 1676, depending on the source, and he ended up in Barbados. Selling war captives into Caribbean slavery was common, so enslavement is the likeliest reading. The romantic story that John Eliot won his release is tradition, not record. What is on record is a 1686 deposition: "Sagamore George when he came from Barbados he lived Sometime and dyed at y^e house of James Rumley Marsh," at Natick. Before he died he left his land claims to James. He was dead before July 1684.

July 1684: the paths cross

By 1684 the colony's charter was under threat from the Crown, and land titles suddenly mattered. "James the Indian and some other Indians" pressed their claim to Marblehead. On 14 July 1684 the commoners met, and the town records read:

"it is votted and agread to by generall consent that M^r Mosis Maverick m^r John Deverix Capt Sam^ll Ward m^r Thedeous Riddan William Beall Thomas Pittman Richard Read and Nathanill Waltown be Joyned as a Comittee with the present Select men of the Town to mack Inquierie into the saied afaiere and sarch after the pretended Claieme and truth of thear title…"

Thomas, now about seventy, was one of eight men chosen to look into the claim. Only Ward and Devereux were empowered to strike the bargain, and they moved fast. Four days later, on 18 July 1684, the heirs sealed the deed for £16 "Currant money of New England." Those heirs were Wenepoykin's widow Joane, "relict Widdow of George Saggamore als Wenepawweekin late of Chelmsford," their daughters Susannah and Sarah, their grandchildren, and James Rumney Marsh's family. The deed was acknowledged that day before Governor Simon Bradstreet. (You'll sometimes see "16 September 1684." The parchment says July 18.)

Then the bill came due. On 6 August the proprietors

"Impowred m^r Samuell Chevers Samuell ward Thomas Pittman and Nathanill Walltown to Joyn as a Comittee with The Select men to proportion each mans part acording to his privellidg in saied township and thay proportioning by Cows leases fiend it to amount to nien pence p^r Cow in mony."

So the fisherman who got two cow rights in 1648 helped work out what each cow right owed for the town's title. It came to ninepence apiece.

Historian Sidney Perley noted that this Thomas Pitman "was of Marblehead when it became a town, in 1648." There was also a younger Thomas, so I can't be absolutely certain it was the elder. Everything points that way. Thomas Pitman died in the summer of 1694, ten years after the deed.

Why it matters to me

Wenepoykin never signed that deed. He had agreed to it in principle in 1672, then lived through war, slavery and exile, and died before the paper existed. Thomas never met the heirs face to face, as far as we know. His job was the inquiry and then the arithmetic. Still, the two men were near-exact contemporaries on the same shore, and one document ties their families together for good. When I stand in Abbot Hall now, I see both of them.

Sources

• Sidney Perley, The Indian Land Titles of Essex County, Massachusetts (Salem, 1912), pp. 10–12, 51–63: deed text and Marblehead Town Records of 14 July and 6 Aug. 1684. https://archive.org/details/indianlandtitles00perl
• Records and Files of the Quarterly Courts of Essex County, vols. 1–7 (EQC 1:91; 2:127; 3:297; 4:267).
• Samuel Roads Jr., History and Traditions of Marblehead (1880), pp. 19–20.
• Perley, "Marblehead in the Year 1700," Essex Institute Historical Collections 46–48 (1910–12).
• Vital Records of Marblehead to 1850 (1903–08).
• Winthrop's Journal, ed. Hosmer (1908), I:114–15. https://archive.org/details/winthropsjourna04hosmgoog
• George M. Bodge, Soldiers in King Philip's War (1906), pp. 129–30.
• Alonzo Lewis & James Newhall, History of Lynn (1865). https://archive.org/details/historyoflynness00lewi_0
• Linford D. Fisher, "'Why shall wee have peace to bee made slaves,'" Ethnohistory 64:1 (2017). https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5654607/
• Marblehead Historical Commission, "Town Deed." http://marbleheadhistory.org/town-deed/

New Real Estate Listings on the North Shore Today – Friday, October 23

New Listings Today – North Shore 29 Towns

This is catching the MOAM's attention today….. 43 new listings hit the North Shore market in the last 24 hours, across 17 towns.

Top towns: Newburyport and Lynn lead the pack with 6 each; Beverly had 5; Ipswich and Gloucester had 4 each; Danvers and Salem had 3 each; Middleton and Peabody had 2 each; and Manchester, Rockport, Lynnfield, Rowley, Salisbury, Saugus, Boxford, and Swampscott had 1 apiece.

By property type: Residential 27 · Residential Lease (rentals) 10 · Residential Income (multi-families) 4 · Commercial Lease 1 · Land 1.

The MOAM's take: Newburyport and Lynn sit at opposite ends of the North Shore, yet they tied for the most new listings today, and with 10 rentals and 4 multi-families in the mix, there's something here for renters and investors as well as buyers.

Contact Nanepashemet to view these.
Nanepashemet Real Estate Services
Call or text 781-727-6516
jnestor@nanepashemet.com

MOAM Out.

Listing data courtesy of MLS Property Information Network (MLS PIN); listings shown are held by various brokerages. Nanepashemet Real Estate Services, MA Broker Lic. 136995-RE-B.